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NA cams in a turbo motor isn't really an "upgrade" IMO. I does shift the power curve to the lower end, at the expense of high end. I'd wait to see how much material is removed from the block/head decks before I made a decision on thickness. The block will likely have to be decked to meet...

That's interesting because I have a fuel rail and both bolts right here. I measured with a dial caliper and metric thread gauge. If yours is M8, it's not a stock fuel rail or UK 7M's have a different fuel rail from USDM (which I doubt).

Excellent post Asterix...thanks for passing on what you've researched ;)

What makes you think it's not metric? Almost everything else on the cars is ;) The CSI and FPR are M12x1.25 The fuel pump feed is M14x1.5

Ok...1st, I've never seen the adapter you purchased on eBay. If you are asking about where to get a 3/4x16 threaded stud for it, I have no idea. I went here: http://www.wixeurope.com/products/index.html Entered 51356 the Wix USA part # for a 2002-08 Honda Accord w/ 3.5L V6 from above...

My CP pistons are coated ;)

You're saying you can't reference a filter for a 2002-08 Honda Accord w/ 3.5L V6?

:runaway: ;)

Top - Ceramic It keeps hot spots from forming Sides - Moly for friction reduction Bottom - Thermal dispersant Self explanatory

Paint Thinner or Acetone and a scotch brite pad. You'll have to remove it between the layers too.

Well, the easiest thing to do would be to find a filter that's M20x1.5. I'm pretty sure Honda filters use that thread....for example: http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51356 2002-08 Honda Accord w/ 3.5L V6

Ok Hommer...whatever you say. I guess my experience working engineering on piping systems for steam generation, turbine, the heat exchangers, and condensers on power generation plants (specifically nuclear ones) doesn't have any bearing either. Nice certification...now work on understanding...

Just make damn sure it's lower or flush like IJ said ;) The missing HG material should help....I'd put a bead of RTV across the top of the timing plate.

If the timing plate was not machined, it sticks up higher than the block deck. That can cause the head to not fully seat on the HG affecting the seal. In your situation, it looks like the PO recognized that and cut the front of the HG off in a ghetto attempt to get the head down far enough to...

Yeah...that's what I was thinking too. And, that is not good :3d_frown:

You better check it's not on backwards. Poodles - TooGoode put the head on. Speaking of that...since you put the HG on, you said: So what really happened here?

What kind of tranny? I wasn't aware that ATI made a flex plate for the 340E.

Yeah, I've never used the regular Stant thermostats...only the SuperStat. Worked as well as OEM for me. I've seen the upper hose collapse too ;)

Ben - Actually it does...the HG covers most of the top of the timing plate. That's why the timing plate MUST be machined along with the block when decking.

Ok Hommer...you're on ;) Just for clarification, I'm saying a thermostat stuck open or not there at all will not cause a overheat. And, I've never seen a lower rad hose on this car collapse.