Search results

This hose and the one behind the water pump (connects to the same hard pipe) are tight 90 hoses. If either blows, you lose all your coolant in short order. Personally, I'm not going to trust an off-the-shelf generic hose in either location to save a couple of $$$, especially considering how hot...

It's likely a pirate air problem. Make sure the TB plate fully is fully closed, then block off the ISCV and the PCV at the respective openings. The engine should die...if it doesn't, you have a vac leak somewhere...this is generally indicative of a high idle though. For a low idle, check...

Above 250 degs F, dino oil starts to break down...synthetic does better, but the additive pack deteriorates. Running oil above it's spec'ed operating temp is a bad idea.

Moved to the Canada forum...duplicate thread deleted.

Actually that is the return line from the head...the longer hose (on top) is the heater hose to the HCV. Blowing that hose 4 times in 6 months is excessive. I would only use a Toyota OEM hose there. If you already are, something else is causing it to blow.

PM Shaeff ;)

It's not...replace the stock #2 cover bolts with hex cap bolts. They are lower profile and should clear the cam gears. This is common with after market gears...if the bolts touch, you will get a rapid ticking from the front of the head. Happened to me with AEM gears...about drove me nuts...

One dowel per cam gear...center hole. A small amount of oil around the lip of the cylinder should not be an issue.

Then you need a better cooler ;) Oil viscosity is spec'ed at 40 and 100 deg C...the higher is it's rated ops temp. Above that, oil viscosity decreases quite rapidly due to heat.

Wrong section...belongs in the 7M-GE Tech section. Suggest you search there and pay attention to to where you post ;) Thread moved.

Wiggle the CPS wires while a helper starts the car...make sure the battery is fully charged.

And remove the O2W cooler to stop heat from the oil putting additional load on the coolant system...as I suggested earlier (post #24), a thermostat controlled circuit hooked up to as big an O2A cooler you can fit will do a lot to help remove the BTU's from the motor IJ is talking about.

HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology...it is aqueous. G-05 is an ethylene glycol based coolant; the HOAT refers to the inhibitor package that contains both inorganic and organic inhibitors. It is low-silicate, low-pH and phosphate-free formula that works well with aluminum. One of the...

Don't forget humble too! :runaway:

Red Line is good ;) I would use the 5W-30...you can't have an oil that's too 'thin" (the 5W = cold viscosity) at engine start. The 30 part of the oil weight will easily meet the spec for your engine at ops temp. If you want to go to a 10W-30 in the summer, that's fine, but not really...

Yep! Summit has them for $400 iirc...the dealer wants $450 for the stocker last I checked. Kinda makes the decision a no brainer ;) Edit: Actually, the 2J ATI damper (part #918562) is $365...even better ;)

One thing to consider is the ATI damper is actually cheaper than OEM from the dealer...higher quality, lighter...any questions? ;)

Not to be too picky, but the 7M crank is fully counter weighted...both the 7M & 6M cranks are balanced ;)