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You don't want to play "petro engineer" ;) Mixing oils of different types/weights can upset the additive package...it is not a good idea. And, don't get me started on Lucas (or other additives)...snake oil is too kind a name for these products. Check your Honda manual...if a 30W multigrade...

It "shouldn't", but "should" is right between "F" and "U" in the alphabet ;) I always do it...call me anal. It doesn't cost anything and it balances the entire rotating assembly.

Shell Rotella T is a great oil...I use it in my diesel Excursion ;) Well...since you live up north (considering how cold it gets), I would use the 0W-30. It's not the gas mileage so much, but how thick the oil is at start-up...if you look at the 40 deg viscosity's the 5W-40 is 38&#37...

The heater return line exits the firewall on the drivers side ;)

18 ft/lbs Take one of your old bolts and match to the threads on the new ones to confirm the same thread size. They should not be hard to install...but, your crank is already in right? That will make it a lot harder.

Ahhh...didn't know that existed! Looks like it just might be a nice alternative for the JZ guys ;)

Pauter rod weight is pretty consistent, but those weights (and pistons too) need to be factored in when balancing the crank. So does the dampner and the fly wheel/flex plate.

Do you have a link? I searched Summit and could not find one for the JZ motors.

And, a bigger cooler! I can see not having an EGR on a full race motor that's running full out...on a street machine, different story ;)

Damn good info Figgie...confirms a lot of the other aspects of what the EGR does too ;)

The rectangular bolt on plate...if it's there, it's a heck of a lot easier to install an EGR to pass emissions.

The heat shield probably can...just make sure anything that can melt is well away from the DP. Especially the speedo cable like I said.

Awful lot of BHG's have been caused by an FDC...fuel cut is there for a reason. A MAFT Pro is a much better option.

Set your timing at 10 deg BDTC...that should help with the mid throttle ping. Might need to back off the boost as well. Concerning emissions, did you have an EGR cooler on the back of the head?

One other thing to look at...make sure the speedo cable is well clear of your new DP. That is unless you want it to melt ;)

Personally, I would dump the FCD...

You need them.

Thanks Figgie ;)

What do you mean? Depending on the diameter/width and the rubber you want to run, there should be no issues fitting these at all. Pretty sure that's what Bor meant ;)

Perhaps it needs battery power vs ignition power to the timer? What do the instructions say?