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Ben - you need to read his previous thread on an oil leak from the front of the head. He neglected to read the TSRM when doing a HG job and did not put RTV on the rear timing plate in the locations specified. The holes he's talking about are on the front head deck (can't be seen in your pic)...

Which is also why I run a quart over full on the dipstick ;)

And I've seen more mechanics than I can count come up with some of the most out-to-lunch logic as to why something works or does not work on a motor...seen quite a bit here too. Usually because they really don't know and create some off-the-wall reasoning for it. Experience is a great thing...

Hence JJ's comment: Meaning the oil pump pick-up tube = loss of oil flow to the motor. I'm thinking you need to be more careful about letting "friends" drive the car. You don't need friends like that.

Tell you what Hommer, why don't you study this and tell me how it's just like a Chevy or Ford: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2 The biggest thing is the volume of the water pump...why do you think IJ added an electric booster pump for low RPM...

You know Hommer, I can't help that you don't understand how this car works...and that doesn't make you the "victim" either. I (and others) have offered suggestions...heck, it's likely nothing is even wrong. What you suggested is simply not going to work and will not produce what the OP says...

Ditto - the temps are not that high. He could increase capacity with a bigger radiator and drop temps a bit. The high OAT is going to have an impact on how well the radiator transfers heat to the air. I was trying to tell you the same thing Hommer...the 7M cooling system doesn't work that...

Yes...stop bumping this thread every 40 minutes.

Hommer - on a 7M, if the stat is stuck open (or no stat), his coolant temps would be low, assuming the system has excess capacity. What you mentioned about coolant traveling too fast through the radiator would require flow well above what the 7M water pump is capable of.

Stant SuperStats are actually pretty good...I always cut the jiggle valve off to allow a bit of flow to the rad at all times to prevent a pressure build-up behind the stat that can hold it closed. Helps get air out of the system too. That does not seem to be the case here. I would check the...

The only problems I've seen are with the Chinese copies...not a real Walbro. But like anything else, even the real Walbro's will fail from time to time.

Yes, but you will need to either bypass the J tube or drill it out. An adjustable FPR is also a very good idea.

Yeah, you're probably right....thought I'd give it a shot ;) Didn't have a camera or cell phone with me.

Parked on Hamburger Alle a block down from the Marriott...has a surfer dude mural painted on the hood ;)

LOL...ok, whatever you say. ;) I guess *most* folks doing a motor swap changes the turbo drain and/or moves the return to the oil pan...especially on a CT26 :rolleyes:

^^^ That's what I use too ;) Make sure it's the SAE 30W, API service classification SL/SM. Here's the spec sheet: http://www.valvoline.com/products/All-Climate.pdf Valvoline also makes a 30W non detergent...you do not want that one.

Ummm...you would have to have a HUGE overfill to cause the turbo line to back up. Take a look at where the turbo line attaches to the block...if you had oil up to that level, the crank would be submersed. Fairly common...not a chance...actually damn near impossible.

"High Detergent" is a misnomer, but is what you will see on the label. Most non detergent oils have little to no additives, which you need and are API SB oils which do not meet the requirements for a 7M motor (or any other engine made after 1963). The reason for using a straight 30W is to...

What about it? A rather broad question ;) It's Amsoil's flagship oil and my post above (#16) applies.

Disconnect the FP connector above the fuel tank and jump Fp and B+ again. If you get spark or the wire gets hot, it's not the fuel pump. ;)