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Just curious about the proceedure Jdub. I used studs and what I did was install a few of the studs then sit the head on. Then I sit my washers in and did the rest of the studs, they are just put in finger tight right? There is a few of the studs that you can't get the washers on after the studs...

ARP bolts come with lube to install them with and torque specs. Read up on the other threads on here, there's plenty, for tips and do's and don'ts. Amichie: By moving the pin on the stock gears wouldn't that be more than 3 deg.? It sure looks like it would be. Can you just off set the...

Yes they will work. Apiex SAFC II would work very well. I have one if you are interested.:naughty:

Some kind of fuel management would help to use these cams to their potential.

If you just did the VC's and are sure it's not leaking there, the only place I can think of were it's comming from would be the HG. Probably need to do a compression test. Have you noticed anything in the oil or coolant?

I would say the samething^^^. Save the old one for parts.

Change your oil and filter put the right amount in then start it let it run alittle to get oil in the filter. Then let it set until cold and check it. make note were it is and that should be your correct level.

136,000. 3000 on this rebuild. 12 miles on it when I bought it.

^^^I've got the originals on my 88. Like Kaka said you may have something worn out and need to see were you might have some play in the components. You could put it up on a lift and turn the sterring wheel back and forth to see were the noise is comming from.

Yeah I got a JDM motor one time that didn't have the EGR. And I believe the ECU is not affected by it.

Yeah I think somebody on here tried the Air comp. filters and that is what I think happened was the oil was too thick.

No you just can't cap them off. You'll at least blow out a cam seal. It's been done here with catch cans, just search.

I don't understand why they took off the VC to replace the distributor, but the VC gaskets leaking is a common problem with these motors. When they do load up with oil and water they usally will start having problems running due to the plug wires shorting out. Burned it up???? Did it catch fire?

To much blow-by. Have you done a compression test?

Yeah sounds like you are missing a bolt or nut. They do have a tendacy to stick a little but you have to make sure you have all the bolts off. Usally a quick knock with the heel of your hand is all it takes to knock it loose.

I don't see were you checked to see if the heater control valve was working? Like metioned before burp the system and see what happens with the heat if that's your only problem.

Looks like a fun track, I'd like to run it sometime. The club I belonged to ran there 3 times a year. Is it a club that you belong to? Was that an instructor that was with you in the car?

Really nice work. 200 at the crank stock. Then I've seen 150-170RWHP depending on the milage and mod's. More mods 170-220whp Would like to see some dyno numbers with the ITB's, I guess that's comming soon.

What weight oil are you using?

My torque has increased as much as the hp. I haven't noticed stroking my 7M has caused a decrease in torque. But if it is possible to extract a little more torque I'd like to know. What about timing the cams a little differently to help out with pulling out a little more torque? ITB's maybe?