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Yes they are posted towards the begining of the thread, 215 and 207. I'll be posting some new numbers soon.

Sounds like maybe you have a ground problem. Zip ties, never use them, I use chicken wire.

Bigger wheels. Most BB kits you have to have at least 17" rims.

What do you mean the timing was pretty close? And did you check with a timing light with the jumper wire?

I have a IPP stroker kit. It came with Chevy Eagle H beam rods, all balanced with Wesico pistons. So far no problems to 7k rpm concerning the Kit.

Rice is not nice. I don't like too much more than maybe a nice set of wheels, gauges, cleaned up under the hood, some of the engines I've seen on here are very nice.

You need to read a little farther. It tells you how to check the cylinders to see if they are within spec. You should check the old rings and pistons to see how they measure according to spec. (Ring end gap) My old rings at 129,000 miles were still within spec. Was there a ridge on the top of...

That was my understanding it balances out the harmonics that sets up in the engine so it doesn't shake it's self apart. With a big heavy flywheel on one end and not much on the other end of the crank, like IJ said thrashed bearings.

Depends on what you're going to have to do to the block. May have to be bored a little, sometimes just cleaned up a little, but usally bored + .010 or more depends on what the machine shop finds. You shouldn't buy anything until the shop checks it out.

Not just talk, my stroke is 97.5mm with +.060 10.5-1 pistons. You can go .060 over with the right block. Defiant: You going to try to get that 101 running?

In the process of tuning Maft-Pro I found that out. 14:5 to 15:1 for cruise. It starts spitting around a AFR of 15.5, at 16 it really misses. I have everything set right now at 12-13 without AFR tracking or PTT on. WOT I'm seeing 11-12.5.

Mine will do that slighty on cold starts, like IJ said thicker gear oil and the cold.

Boy I don't know, maybe 11:1. Mine at 10.5:1 on 93 octane doesn't want to run to good at all over 15.5AFR. My cams aren't radical .322 lift and .244 duration. But I could be wrong, been wrong before:biglaugh:

Save up for a Maft-Pro w/WB. Doc can get you one.

Thanks Dr, I'll trade you for yours:naughty: Mines black. Back on subject, you know with 12.5 compression you'll have to run racing gas I'm pretty sure.

215 rwhp and 207 torque before the Maft-Pro will dyno again maybe the end of next week to see what difference the Maft-Pro has made. I think there are afew more over 200 around this forum somewere.

I aggree with going to the same dyno to check your progress. I guess the G-tec could serve the same purpose, not as accurate but maybe accurate enough to see any changes besides your "butt dyno":biglaugh:

There are a few out there:biglaugh:

Yep that's a vac can. I don't know who told you you couldn't see it, but you can from the side looking kind of sideways.

Well strike up the band!!! Glad to see you posting some again, cuel has been trying to keep up with everything, you know how hard it is keeping up with guys like me:sarcasm: