Don't see were you machined the block???
Did you use ARP head bolts or studs??
The studs I believe you can torque to 92 lbs, but the bolts you shouldn't go much more than what ARP recommends, I think it's around 72lbs. but don't quote me on that. ARP sends that info with the bolts.
How's your coolant level been? I think if it is low and when you step on the gas the pump spins faster and is able to push some of the coolant to the rear of the motor, were the hose is for the heater.http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=2
Well I'm older than both of you it's just I don't know as much so I'm only half as grumpy.
Wait a minute......I don't think that came out right........:nono:
Never had that problem, but it sounds like a problem with the brake booster. Check your vac lines to it.
If you let the reservoir get real low you may have air in your booster. It will have to be bled.http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=6
Why do you say he's probably not running as rich???
Try 14-15 deg. + . Works for me but I run 93 octane, I know a few others that run +15 deg. with regular fuel.
Yeah everything is the same except the oil pan and pickup, and the motor mounts. If you get a JDM 7M then the throttle body will be without the 3 vac lines on the top of the TB. I believe they are used for the EGR valve, they don't use them. You will have to keep your original sensors and ECU to...
Hey, hey!! Don't be ragging on these old eyes. You're probably close to me.:biglaugh: I'll bet it's at least 2mm thicker.
Looking forward to more pics.
As with any cam change with any motor I've modded, the more you do to make the motor breath better, the better thr cams will work. Tuning plays a big part of it, if you tune it wrong sometimes they will hurt performance, and if they are more cam then what you need the same thing may happen.
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