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After 60K miles the holes won't be round or true, just because "motor ran great" doesn't mean it was in any condition to build on as a good reliable base. I don't build dyno queens or one hit wonders, I run my cars exactly how they're dyno'd and expect them to live day in day out at those...

Another thing to keep in mind for the Dyno Kenny, RESIST the "one last pull" temptation.... that's always the one that breaks it ;)

Trim the fan?

"Line Pressure Cable" it has nothing to do with kickdown.

<300 is a low HP 7M build.

60K I'd be going the next size bore without a second thought if it's a performance build, if it's a low hp DD type thing I'd measure first before deciding on a course of action.

All depends on how the bores Mic up. For a general tart up yeah a deglaze will suffice but for Turbo engines I rarely go that route unless I'm sure of the history.

Whiney Clit much?

Easist way to check runout is spin it slowly in the drill, hold a pencil near it as it turns and move it as close to the shaft as you can without it touching, watch the gap as it turns. (this is assuming you don't have a dial indicator handy)

I'd get some really careful measurements taken on both the block and pistons, if you have to honed on a machine it may end up out of spec and have piston slap when cold, if it's just a deglaze you're after a light go with a flex hone will suffice.

Beware of creep on the top end now Kenny, make sure you tell the dyno operator it's a potential issue so he can back out of it if needed.

Yes it will slow as it hits the bend and depending how prone to surge a particular turbo is it may tip it into surge no matter what you try.

Pull the shaft and spin it up in a drill and see how much runout it has.

A "girlfriend" ;)

Yep and can be a bitch to start when heatsoaked even with the valve working.. I have my car set up to run both pumps at 100% while cranking to flush the hot fuel through, it helps.

Yep I just clamp a block of wood in the vice with a hole in it under the pin press against it with my body so my hands are free and knock the pin out, yes the 6mm cuts into the gear a little just don't go mental as the new pin gets peened over into the hole anyway.

I drill a pilot hole through the pin then use a 6mm bit to drill the head off on each side and use a pin punch to punch out what's left of the pin making sure I support the gear on a block of wood, I WOULDN'T use heat anywhere near it.

Post a WTB thead and replace it..... Toyota went to a LOT of trouble to ensure these cars will run/start under all kinds of conditions this is one of those parts, it helps flush any boiled fuel in the rail through on hot starts/cranking. A LOT of members strip ALL of these features out...

Why?

Hot start pressure up.