Nah even 1500 is going to remove a LOT of material, the steel wool pads with soap in the work well but make sure you wash the shells well with hot soapy water before plastigauging them.
You only need to rub very lightly to remove half a thou, better to do it 2, 3 times then too much in one go.
Just saying seen it happen here a LOT, people start with a loose plan then change in midbuild and end up costing 2x.
Discuss EVERYTHING as with these cars there's nothing much new it's all been done before so if you have a question post it up and eventually someone will know or have fiirst...
Might also want to verify that the mark on the Damper is actually at TDC before going further.
Pull #1 plug rest a wood chop stick on the piston and careully turn the crank with a 19mm socket on the damper and watch the stick, when it stops at the top compare the mark to the Timing case...
Sorry wasn't thinking.... (oldNalotonmymind)
You can either have the crank linished down to suit or you can very carefully sand the bearing surface with fine steel wool, remember you're only trying to remove half a thou.
#1 is way too tight, I'd shuffle some shells around and see if you can get a little more clearence, SG is correct high 1's refers to 1.5>1.9 thou.
Rings will be 4 thou for every inch of bore diamter top and 5 thou on the second, if it's going to be a 4>500rwhp build I'd add at least another 5...
I'd shoot for high 1's for that power, 2 won't hurt anything other than a little extra pressure bleedoff.
It will leave you with some overhead in case the HP bug bites.
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