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Might be useful info (or not) but most Aftermarket Turbo suppliers will void your warranty if Silicone is used anywhere on the turbo.

Also a good idea to confirm the damper mark is correct at TDC.

Welcome! It's just a case of thinking about what it's doing then doing the correct tests to diagnose it.

Buy a can of aerostart and with the engine idling carefully spray some around the intake gaskets and see if the engine note/rpm changes that will confirm/rule out any leaks.

Usually a timing or vacc leak issue, sometimes tight valves will do it before burning them and doing it all the time.

Backfires usually aren't from a rich condition.

Why would you think it would cause a backfire?

When I did mine there are 3 bolts on the regulator, 2 on the guide and 2 nuts on the base of the glass, I undid all these then wedged a screwdriver in to hold the glass up, would the regulator down so the X is flat and wiggle the whole assembly out through the hole. As with most things Toyota...

Think it's around the 33 ft/lbs mark from memory. (rang Toyota many years back on this one)

Can you see the bit in question on this pic?

Can you post a pic? I rebuilt both my doors last December but need a reference to the exact part you're talking about.

Installed correctly and kept out of detonation yes, but keep in mind 1 dud tank of fuel and a rattle will ruin your day! A bit like the Cast V's Forged piston debate, yes stock pistons can cope will with very high outputs but can't cope with a rattle.

Never seen anything more than anecdotal "I installed one and my car handles xx% bettererrrr" The "problem" with them is as designed they're just a hinge, grab a cardboard box open the ends so it's a tube hold the bottom on the floor so it can't move then push on a side and watch what the top...

Would love to see some pics Tx, I miss my Z car even though I died in it ;)

Make sure whatever you buy has Viton Stem seals, more Viton parts is a good thing but usually a little more exe.

Sensor was accesible from the engine bay, didn't have to pull anything to get to it as I mounted it to the sheet metal spacer between the engine and trans on the exhaust side.

My point exactly, in that situation I'd buy a DD like a Geo Metro and enjoy "driving" and pass on building anything until I sorted my life out and could afford it.

If the 02 is dead/dying it will explain the economy hit, shouldn't effect starting though so there's 2 issues. Starting may be something simple like a blocked CSI or badly out of tune.

Solder Joints can be prone to failure if not done perfectly, Crimp connectors on the other hand are simple, easy and pretty well fool proof, have a look how connections are done on most aircraft. If the heatshrink isn't fuel proof you run the risk of a tank explosion if the power wire arcs...

"Should" be able to juggle select fit Toyota bearings to close it down some. (theres a chart in the TRSM covering it all)