If there was still sand in the head all it's going to fuck is the Cam journals and saddles.
RK that soon is 99% of the time incorrect clearences or an incorrectly plumbed filter relocation kit.
Did you bother to read the OP's post and question at all? :nono:
Tim: While in theory it would work the CSI isn't going to flow enough to be any more than at cruise cylinder cleaning (might be different if you can pump 2>300+ Psi into it) but control would be a huge problem as it's only ever...
LOL I had good luck with paint thinner and the Viton, it just washed straight off (our thinner is probably carcinogenic though so I'll grow an elbow on my forehead or some shit)
Mine tore down fine each time after an initial 5 cycle retorque and it's why I always push it, ALWAYS had a few back off before the retorque no matter if it's new or old hardware, even on a brand new block and head.
It seal Oil as well it's the gap between the timing case and the block....
I have NFI why you're persisting with trying to justify doing a half assed botch repair.
I'm NOT making this shit up go ahead do it your way but don't piss and moan when it leaks like a collander.
Whatever you get make sure it either has a non return valve on the purge line or fit one, you DON'T want to pressurise it on boost that would be bad ok ;)
On JDM cars they would be where your Brake Booster is Chris, I relocated mine using a bracket from a Hyundai I found at the junk yard.
Nick: Good for you, there's no "reason" to remove it :nono:
Better to get the compact JDM one and hide it away if you're offended by how the big ugle stock...
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