I would use drain plug gaskets on the 4 core plugs. You have to remove the no3 valve cover that the plug wires sit on but it seals the plugs perfect. Fipg doesn't always work to good. Would have to clean the metal part on both sides and make sure to use fipg on both sides of it. The metal part...
You would need the early style master if your going with like the ss line from dm.
The 91/92 has a banjo fitting at the master while the early ones have a flare fitting.
Other wise the masters are the same.
If you are bypassing the cor then you wouldn't even use the green wire.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46
You would just run a wire from the black red to the black blue.
That should be fine. I run a 265 in the rear and it doesn't rub. 275 only rubbed up inside the fender on hard bumps with people in the back.
I run 18/10 all around +25. 255 up front doesn't rub and I'm pretty low.
The check engine light should be wired to the w pin on the Ecu. Check that first if it's on all the time.
Second have you pulled the blue boots off the coils and really looked at the coils? There is most likely cracks on there.
Also what kind of plugs and what are they gapped to?
If it...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101
And you followed this?
Make sure to look at the connector slots so your looking at it the right way.
Every test should not be getting the same amount of resistance.
Connector needs to be off the tps as well.
Also...
I usually use a dead blow plastic hammer to take off pans. Not crazy hard but it will start to loosen up. Iirc there is also a couple spots that would be better to pry on. Wouldn't try to damage the mating surface as you want the nice flat smooth seal.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.