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Here ya go. Never heard of the stuff, myself, but I googled it and it came right up. 303

Get your buddy to help you fix the motor you have. These are beautifully easy compared to any of the Euro's.

Is it possible you crossed a vacuum line and coolant line on or under the intake?

It is entirely possible that he's mistaking blue smoke for white, as they do look similar if its not very thick. I was just giving possibilities for white smoke. I've noticed after hg jobs that, after that initial big nasty cloud, a vehicle wouldn't smoke visibly under pressure(acceleration)...

Oil smoke is blue, not white. Could also just be high humidity, and your seeing the exhaust vapors. Usually takes a while to burn all the coolant and water out of the exhaust.

You know your an n/a owner when... you can take your time building your turbo project and still drive your Supra everyday :evil2:

Could be the oil soaked plug boots are arching out. Amazing how rapidly oil eats up rubber boots, hoses, etc. By the way, those Bosch wires are junk. You might as well be using Duralast. I've had to many problems with both, and use neither any more. I prefer MSD wires myself, but others...

Could be a bad fuel pump relay/resistor, and it was bypassed to fix it cheap. I find stuff like that a lot. I like it even better when its done with yellow wire nuts and cheap electrical tape....

Could be contaminates in the exhaust still....

codes?

http://www.davisaircraftproducts.com/section4page1.jpg These should do pretty much whatever you want. They also sell all kinds of straps, clips, and whatever else you may find necessary. To bolt them down, use a double expansion anchor like this...

I ran regular unleaded stock, and with minor intake upgrade, cat-delete, and ignition. It wasn't until I put a header on and did a full exhaust upgrade that I had to change to a higher octane gasoline. Now run Shell or Chevron mid-grade mostly.

Meh, just take it in the way you have it. A valve job consists of reseating the valves, basically. They cut the seats and valves, then lap them for a good seal. Yes, they'll put in new valve seals. Take them the ones that come in the head gasket kit so you don't have to buy them twice.

lol, from personal experience, I positively HATE it when the customer disassembles anything, then wants me to put it back together. It doesn't matter if they labeled everything, I prefer to do it myself so I know where everything was, and how it goes back together. I only said they May charge...

lol, I like "Toyota Supra Repair Manual." I didn't even think of the fuel being routed back to the tank. The fpr is mounted on top of the rail by the 2nd injector. Have you run a fuel pressure test? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=71 Go to step 2. You should...

Jkm3141: The machine shop might charge you a little extra because you took it apart. I took mine apart, and just threw everything in a bucket. Didn't label a single thing. Then again, I'm changing most of it anyway. The important part of reassembling it is the buckets and shims. They...

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ Pull the vacuum line on the fpr and see if its wet inside. Usually, when it goes bad, it'll leak gas into the vacuum system.

Nigma: I looked today, and that is the fuel level sending unit under that cover. Edit: Tho one on the floor of the car under the false floor. Has 3 screws.

I guess my question was a little vague. I was curious to know if the engine spins faster than normal, like it doesn't have any compression? From the description in your first post, I thought maybe the timing belt jumped when it started, and either broke or stripped some teeth in the process...

A good, thorough engine cleaning, followed by a stiff blow drying? Meh, might use the baster first so you don't blow oil all over the engine bay.