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I think if this was me, I'd put a crank kit in it. I would really hate to cut down all the high spots, and reassemble it all, only to have a vibration because the crank is out of balance. Guess it would depend on how much metal you have to remove from just one side.

Does it spin faster than normal? Sound kinda like there's no compression?

It shouldn't spin freely, it should rotate freely. You should be able to wiggle the stud in every direction without it binding at any point. If you look right up between the boot on the link, and the sway bar itself, there is a spot there to put a wrench so that you can tighten the nut correctly.

DOH!!!! lol, don't feel bad. You're not gonna do (or not do) anything I haven't done at least once. I see the anti sieze now; not sure if I'd do that, last thing you want is for either of those bolts to back out. Them being a PITA to come out is a good thing ;) What "packing" are you...

I think AJ's right. That's a pressurized fuel line that is a shrink fit to the two banjo fittings(one on inj., one on the fuel rail). Auto Zone does sell a repair kit that you can use to replace that type of line, but I've never had good luck with it. Always winds up leaking again, and I wind...

Check for codes? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

First, something doesn't look right with the 1st cam cap on the exhaust side. It looks like its sticking forward a little? Second, what the hell happened to that intake cam?? The bolt hole is trashed. Did you cross thread it, or leave the bolt loose and it came out with the engine running...

I can pull a 7m head in just under 2 hours. Of course, I have the tools and experience to make this easy. IF you want to leave it over the winter, pull the head now, clean everything, generously coat the cylinders, piston tops, and deck with grease, cover it with a trash bag, and gently put...

The chatter could be the clutch grabbing to slow. Letting the pedal out to slow will only burn up the clutch and glaze the flywheel. Your problem sounds like either the master or slave cylinder, and I would recommend changing both. BTW, which SPEC did you get? Certain clutches will chatter...

FYI: I've run compression tests on some cars with all the spark plugs in and got good readings, but when I took them out, I'd find 2 cylinders next to each other that were low. HG could be blown between 2 cylinders, and they're holding pressure together. They'll even hold good pressure as...

maybe going to a test pipe from a completely plugged up cat. It's an easy upgrade, I made my own from an old cat. Cut the cat. from between the flanges, and welded a piece of 3" in. Cost a whole $20.

From what I understand, the flywheels are different by three teeth. You have to use a starter for a turbo model as well?

On the GTE, use the recommended torque specified by ARP. I'd get the head at least checked, and wouldn't even consider installing the engine without popping the oil pan and checking the bearings first. Its not that hard to do while the motor is on a stand, and silicone sealant for the pan is...

CRE: Thanks for the link :) Need to pull my cluster to fix a squeaky cable anyway, so I can do this at the same time. A whole lot cheaper than buying tires, to.... As far as changing tire size to compensate, I already plan on that(to a degree, I hate really short sidewalls: they look really...

What an.... interesting.... thread. I have a n/a build currently in progress, and was hoping to hit 200+ with a lot of internal work. Guess I'm there already, as I have more done now then he does ;)

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

I get around 21 to 22 highway, and much lower in town. I do drive a little hard, though.... Edit: CAI, OBX header, full exhaust and test pipe, clutch, DSS steel drive shaft, I have a serious lead foot as well, and would probably get much better mileage if I backed off it a bit.

CRE: How? Interested as well, as I just put 17" Mustang GT wheels with 245 55's on, and my speedo is definitely off.

Actually, without modifying the cams and valvetrain, a turbo isn't gonna make a difference above 6k. Now up to 6k, that's a whole different story.... Getting a more free-flowing exhaust will help you out quite a bit with your mid and high rpm power.

If it has the stock manifold, its actually on the manifold just below the "tubes." It has one wire going to it, and 2 nuts holding it on.