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I just left a couple weeks ago to come back to Birmingham. My supra stays in Aiken though :< You can go visit it for me if you want.

Well I threw about $2000 into my $900 supra and made 360@13psi with a slipping clutch. With a new clutch it runs 18psi no problem, so I"m confident it will make over 400hp. Point is 400hp is cake if thats your goal, the 7mpower cars also have alot of extras (bodykits, paint, rims) that make them...

Wow I guess I've been out of touch all summer. Good job on winning Jay, your car definetly deserved it. I've seen the car up close and it looks amazing, especially the custom interior. Nice job!

I only get it when I haven't ridden for a few days. Though I do drive with the windows down. Every supra I've seen has the smell.

None, living in the south has some priveleges.

Yeah DevilSupra that's a great guide, I did that one too. Ended up costing me under $100.

If it's leaking from the rack (easy to tell because the rubber boots will fill up and spill fluid out the sides) there's a simple fix you can try. I took apart the rack on my old supra and replaced all the seals and it still leaked. I was quite angry and just lived with the leak. When I got my...

Haha me and my friends refer to all fast cars as Lamborgatti Fastarossa's now.

I got the same thing. On my last supra it was easy to diagnos rod knock because it was loud as hell and shook the whole car. This is alot different. I only hear it when revving hard, and it dies out above 3000rpms. My brother says "it sounds like a woodpecker in your engine." I can't think of...

Nah I think I'm set, I appreciate it though. If I had known you were still working on this I'd have stayed the weekend but I'm already back in South Carolina.

If the wastegate was set to 14psi, any boost made beyond that would be released (wasted) straight down the exhaust. That's where the boost controller comes in. A manual boost controller is just a controlled bleed on the wastegate actuator. It will make the wastegate think it sees less boost, so...

My upgraded CT-26 came set at 10psi. Brian had the wastegate actuator arm threaded though, so I can adjust it to my liking. I like it lower so I can tune it up with the boost controller, I run between 14-16psi.

It's in a place thats very unpleasant to reach. Its mounted on the driver side of the transmission bellhousing. You can see it under the intake manifold on the passenger side. Like i mentioned before, if you're ever in a jam try tapping it with a hammer.

You don't even have to replace the brushes, there are two copper contact pieces that wear out. They are like $5. The only problem is getting the starter out :<.

You need to use your SAFC and tune a good map. I use the old knob style one, and it works fine, I got a good mix across the board.

That used to happen to me, it happened if i shut the car down from anywhere between 10 minutes and 3 hours. I kept a piece of pipe and hammer in the car, and I'd tap the starter. It would always start right after that. I replaced the starter contacts and that did the trick.

The vaccum line can read anywhere after the throttle plate. You can extend the line that ran to the factory FPR. You need to loosen the nut on top of the AFPR and then adjust it with the allen screw. Then when its set right, re-tighten the nut hard.

Not much man. I'm pretty confident I have rodknock now, as the rattling is getting worse :<. I need to get the car parked so I can work on it. Alabamaracingscene.net is having a barbeque tomorrow, I'm still debating whether to go back to Birmingham for the weekend or not.

Walker Dyno Tune or AutoLabz here in Birmingham. Thats quite a long drive from tennessee though.