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I am trying to get my supra up and running. 7MGTE 1988 Turbo 5 speed. It started out with having a code 51 and a code 32. So I went through the whole process of adjusting the TPS to specs and then used a timing light to get the timing at 10degrees. I remember having to fight to get the CPS...

You might have to have the dimmer switch hooked up to get the gauges to work

Ya I did. Thanks for the help. When I had the pins jumped I saw what I believe is 2 codes. It flashed 3 times then 2 times. Then pause. Then 5 times then 1 time. I was moving the TPS then it seemed to have caused the second code. Also tried unplugging the TPS. That didn't really change much...

It sounds like you have read a lot. Now it's time to formulate your own opinion. Pollute or don't pollute?

I think it is more for Toyota pickups when they upgrade the brakes. I've heard some pickups run a landcruiser master cylinder. But if you got the driftmotion Cobra brakes kit then it has the ss brake lines, which will adapt to existing brake lines and provide a slightly better feel in the pedal...

I plugged in some harness connectors and got my guages working. Jumped the diagnostic box and moved the cps slightly. So now I think I'm back to square one; it's about the same way it was running 6 months ago. I deleted all that throttle linkage stuff and ran the throttle cable directly to the...

I noticed some codes flashing. I'll do that next. But I messed around a bit more and got it running more stable.

I took out the cps and installed it correct. I had the terminals t1 e1 jumped and it started and ran at about 500rpm then eventually will die. But I can get the throttle to do something now. I don't know what the issue is now. I'm just going around checking grounds and looking for any leaks bad...

I have not done the timing belt. But thanks. I will adjust the cps properly. It must be off a tooth.

Ya but this really seems like safe mode. I can't rev it past about 400rpm. I did replace the rear knock sensor I broke. I got a spare one from a guy. And I think I extended (soldering) the wire for the front knock sensor. Could this cause my car to barely run?

Well I have been working on my car for about 6months and now I am trying to start it up. (7MGTE) I got all new fluids in, good battery, and put the dashboard in. Got the instrument cluster in and went to start it up. After a couple tries we got it to start but it won't stay running very long...

Which goes to the front of the intake manifold behind the alternator

The rear corner piece goes on last

Anywhere from 600 to 5000 depending on who does the work, where u buy wrap and stuff

ah. ok i'll have another try at it.

Hey I have been doing tons of stuff to my car. And right now I have my my 2 front hub assemblys on the work bench. I am going to change the wheel bearings. But I am having a tough time getting the snap ring off. What is the easiest way to get the snap ring off?

Well pushing the clutch in would empty it out at the slave. If you drive for 30mins without touching the clutch then it might hold fluid. My guess is the slave went too.

Hahaha yes I know that I was just kidding around

Hey thanks Supracentral for the very tiny picture. I guess I can remove those sensors I installed today. I won't be needing a/c sensors.

Various things? There isn't a lot of "things" on a brake line. It sounds to me like 1 or 2 people didn't allow for suspension movement when they installed their brake lines. Or possibly 1 specific brake line manufacturer didn't crimp theirs properly. Or it is entirely possible that someone sold...