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It did feel good for a little while at first. It had plenty of power. I thought it was good. Then it went to shit.

So here is my story. Right now I'm hugely dissapointed. Ok. It started with a road trip. I met some new people and signed up for my first drifting event ever on a track. It was 6 days away. On my way home my car overheated. I found out it was a blown coolant hose at the back of the head. The...

If you try to pull those studs then don't wreck any threads. And when you thread in new studs or whatever don't overtighten them in the soft aluminum. That''s my input.

I drove my Supra from near Nelson BC to Kelowna BC for the 2012 KCL Spring Cruise. We could not have asked for a better day to do this. I took some pics. I had a good day, including when my turbo coolant hose burst on my way back home and I fixed it with a piece of my coolant reservoir hose and...

I guess my battery cable + was loose. I swapped in another battery and it worked. So I put my Optima Yellow Top back in and it worked. I could of swore it was connected good and tight. At least I think that's what it was. Anyway I fixed it now.

Wow this really sucks. I can't figure this out. Can bad/brittle wires on the coil plug cause me to have no power to the whole car?

I was replacing my injector seals and got it all back together. I went to start it and it cranked but never started. The second time I tried to crank it I lost all power. No power to anything. I can hear a faint beep down by the fuse panel driver's foot when I turn the key. I think I might have...

Cool. I just weighed my Supra today. 3210 without me and a 1/2 tank. Still haven't drilled out my bumper supports. It still has the stock seats including the super heavy electric driver's seat. I've got a bare metal floor. No AC. No heater ducting. No climate controls or stereo. Ditched cruise...

Well after hooking up my boost gauge and watching it when I drive I figured out a bit better what is going on. I think I have a leak. The intake gasket on the EGR. I need to tighten that one bolt. Because I can tell my turbo is working overtime. My boost gauge starts to read at about 14-15psi...

Hmmm. Except I hear a sort of rattling when I mash the gas down really hard. It is around 3500rpm or so. So ya, something internally. A ring or bearing. The only way to fix that is pull the whole engine right? Unless it is still just wiring causeing the ecu to change timing and cause pinging. At...

What do you mean I can't? I've fixed all types of stuff. I already have an engine hoist so I guess I'm doing it. "Diagnose" What's to diagnose anyway. Code 52 = knock sensor. Can be the ECU, wiring, or it actually has knock. 1500 rpm idle. That's all. Other than that it runs great and I'm gonna...

It could be the wires. Who knows. I always wanted a 2JZ. I guess I'll just drive it until it blows up. And try to save up some money.

Well. I played around some more. I switched my knock sensor wires to see if I accidentally got them mixed up when I had the harness out. That didn't make the code 52 go away. I guess I really do have knock. Well that sucks. I have one more chance still. I think I may have loosened my crank...

OH K. No I don't have to give it any gas. I started it and let it idle for a long time. The idle never dropped. Stayed at 1500. And a code 52 appeared. Could a code 52 cause the idle issue? If not then maybe bad ecu...

Now I'm thinking it's an IAC problem. Should I disconnect it and see if it changes it? I can see a couple of the wires right at the plug have breaks in the wire insulation.

OK so I found my egr was missing a nut on the intake manifold gasket flange. I got that on and the idle is now stable when warmed up. But still a high idle so I disconnected the battery. Now I will go back out and start it up to see if if idles lower.

I left my car alone all night. I went back out there this morning and started it up. It actually idled good. RPM was up high like a normal cold start. Then it started to drop RPM as it warmed up and that is when the surging idle started again. So it only does it when it reaches operating...

K well it's nice to know about the engine light. I don't have any codes anymore. Just the bad idle. I'm thinking 02 or spark plugs. And I said I have a 1988 so my HAC sensor is seperate from the ecu. But I plugged it in and code 32 went away after I disconnected battery. I don't think the ecu is...

Oh. I went out and checked it out again after having the battery disconnected. I jumped the diagnostic box and got a constantly flashing check engine light. This must mean no codes. Without the box jumped the engine light comes on when I first turn the ignition then it goes away. So I guess now...

I'm gonna try and throw in some new spark plugs tomorrow. And have a look for vacuum leaks.