painful feeling after hg job

planemos

New Member
Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
So here is my story. Right now I'm hugely dissapointed. Ok.

It started with a road trip. I met some new people and signed up for my first drifting event ever on a track. It was 6 days away. On my way home my car overheated. I found out it was a blown coolant hose at the back of the head. The 90 degree one. I managed to replace it and get my car home. I should mention that a week before that I blew one of my turbo coolant lines and replaced that one as well. So I determined that my coolant system was seeing a lot of pressure. During these events I noticed a milky white substance under the oil cap. So I had replaced my 90 degree hose at the back of the head but the engine was still eating coolant. Finally I realized BHG.

I got right on it. Ordered ARP head bolts, new TOYOTA headgasket, copper spray, brake cleaner. I pulled the head with the turbo still on the lower intake mani still on and the camshafts still on. To save time. I was going to make this drift event! My parts arrived the next day and I was ready to install them and put the engine back together. I was making good time and progress. So I had the head and block surface cleaned up real good with a wire brush and a razor blade using brake cleaner and finally acetone and a rag. I blew out all the head bolt holes with compressed air. I used my hoist and set the head on the block. It was hard to line up the exhaust and turbo oil drain/supply. I got my Dad to help me and we finally got the head on the dowel pins. Plus the exhaust and turbo oil lines bolted on fairly snug but not all the way. I installed the ARP bolts with the supplied lube in 3 equal steps torqued to 90 ft/lbs just like the instructions said. Re assembled engine stuff. Checked timing. Filled rad with water. Put in new oil. Started car. Found a large oil leak because I hadn't tightened the turbo oil supply enough. Fixed that. New oil new filter. Started car and after a bit of idling I drove it to the end of my road. The temp gauge started to go up. Okay so then must be air in the coolant still. Went home tested the t stat (works) and refilled and burped coolant. Another test drive. No overheating this time. Let the car sit for 1 or 2 hours because I was tired had to rest a bit. Went back to the car and test drove it again for a 30 min drive. While I parked at the gas station I noticed oil leaking on the ground from the front of the engine. Drove straight home and parked on some plywood. Yup oil leak. It looked kinda like it was coming from the block to head ventilation pipe. I removed that and it was blocked full of white goo. I blew it out with compressed air and reinstalled it. Topped up coolant and started car. Didn't notice anything dripping underneath so went for another test drive. Stopped at the gas station. Oil leaking out from under. Went to start the car and it made a hard grinding sound. It wouldn't start. Let it sit for a min and tried again. It started and idled real low. I gave it a bit of gas and the idle went close to normal 650rpm so I drove home for 15 mins. The gauge went into the red more than once but I made it home. When I got home I parked on the plywood again. Leaking very much now. The radiator cap was damn near ready to explode because of so much pressure. I cracked open the oil drain on the oil pan. The first bit was water. OMG that's it I said. It's messed right up now. So now I give up. Either the headgasket came off the dowel pins upon installation or the head is cracked. I'm not sure. Is there a chance I can just retorque? Or am I completely fuked? I never retorqued it yet. Oh and on the intake side, when I look from under, I can see a little bit of the headgasket poking out. My thinking right now is that I am going to get a professional to build me a 2JZ when I can get the money. Emotional rollercoaster for me because I just wanted to drift.
 

kotu100

Active Member
Nov 23, 2006
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Easton, Ma
Damn man that sucks, don't blame it on the motor tho, when maintained, repaired, or built properly the 7m is a strong reliable motor.

Did you put a straightedge on the head and block to make sure they were still straight?
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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Yeah the head gasket just didn't seal correctly. Probably due to the extra hassle you had to deal with when having the turbo and other things installed.

I am currently replacing my second hg because I had a couple mis haps with blown coolant hoses and bad water pump that just put to much stress on the Toyota hg. Good news is I can re use the arp head studs :)

Take a rest on it give a couple days don't give it on your car. Shouldn't be to hard to fix as long as you don't get rod knock from driving it with water In the oil.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Arizona
www.supramania.com
You didn't machine the head after a bhg? THAT was easily a showstopper right there. Sometimes you can get very, very lucky and it will seal without milling, but not normally.

Sorry it went the way it did, but now you know the importance of proper preparation in engine building. :(

Lesson learned.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
suprarx7nut;1838488 said:
You didn't machine the head after a bhg? THAT was easily a showstopper right there. Sometimes you can get very, very lucky and it will seal without milling, but not normally.

Sorry it went the way it did, but now you know the importance of proper preparation in engine building. :(

Lesson learned.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

Hmmm I always thought that you could get away with it as long as it wasn't a metal hg. I used copper spray and a oem headgasket. Plus ARP bolts would clamp down really hard. Wow. Ya lesson learned. It really is finicky and sensitive.
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
I used the ARP stuff that came with the head bolts. I did it right. Put it on the threads, under the head of the bolt and on the chamfered washer thing.

I never retorqued it yet. I've read that it must always be retorqued on a new install after a couple heat cycles. Unfortunataly I was dumb and boosted when I first drove it. But it really seemed fine at first. Right now I'm resting and thinking about it all. I'm starting to see a bit of hope in a retorque. But discovering coolant at the oil pan drain was scary. Plus oil leaking from somewhere I'm assuming from the headgasket.
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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Yeah dude I don't see much hope for it.

Ya at the least you need to take the head and drain that oil ASAP. I have arp head studs and never did a retorqe and I was fine for almost 1 and a half of beating the ever living crap out of my car..

to only have the gasket fail to no fault of my own and having to many over heating issues with failing water pumps and coolant hoses
 
Last edited:

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Arizona
www.supramania.com
Head should be milled always. Block should be milled too for mhg. Again, head always needs machine work with very few exceptions.

Retorque won't help. Time to pull it.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 

SPOOLINLUST

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Feb 24, 2011
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nnj
suprarx7nut;1838506 said:
Head should be milled always. Block should be milled too for mhg. Again, head always needs machine work with very few exceptions.

Retorque won't help. Time to pull it.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
Thats good advice!
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
Ok I think I got it now. But there is no way I'm spending that kind of money on this engine. That would mean I need all new gaskets. I would need a lot. Plus work. And I've already proved that I can't work on an engine. Yea a nice reliable 2JZ is what I need. Next summer I will do some drifting I guess. Depressing.

But one last question. Should I be able to see the edge of the headgasket from under the intake manifold looking up?
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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NO you shouldn't be able to see the Head gasket with the head on....

But seriously you can take the cams out and get the head decked for $50 U.S.D

Buy a $50 engine gasket kit from ebay.

Get another Toyota head gasket if the one you have is damaged from this.

You can Re use the head bolts from ARP

And take your time putting it together.

$180-$250 and your car is fixed Do not start this car without putting new oil and Filter in it.
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
Turbo Habanero;1838522 said:
NO you shouldn't be able to see the Head gasket with the head on....

But seriously you can take the cams out and get the head decked for $50 U.S.D

Buy a $50 engine gasket kit from ebay.

Get another Toyota head gasket if the one you have is damaged from this.

You can Re use the head bolts from ARP

And take your time putting it together.

$180-$250 and your car is fixed Do not start this car without putting new oil and Filter in it.

-Ha $180-$250 is about all the money I have left right now. Maybe I will give that a shot. And take my time. If I'm lucky I might make 1 drift event this summer.

-Well that is nice. lol. I wonder how I got all the head bolts in with the headgasket that much out of wack.
 

oldsking

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Mar 19, 2009
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And there goes the saying, "Yea a nice reliable 2JZ is what I need... What you need to do is properly install the head and not rush the job to make a drift event. Due to the poor installation you may have screwed your head up by warping it. All in all next time take your time and do the installation correctly and dont just go boosting while you are trying to seat the gasket! Its stories like this that make people say the 7m is bad but it all starts from the "mechanic" who worked on it.
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
I'm sorry. I know the 7M is good. I don't think I will give up on it just yet. My Dad helped me but I should have just done it by myself. He drinks and I don't think he knows more about doing a headgasket job then me. He said "the front is good now line up the back of the head". And I believed him. Ya if only I wasn't in a rush. Next I'm going to take it all apart. Like in the next day or so. But I doubt I will resurface the head. It's probably fine. I just know that the headgasket isn't even aligned properly. THAT is the problem. If I had of just seated it right the first time it all would have been fine. I just have to do the same thing again. Only this time I will actually take off the turbo to make it easier on me. I don't think I can resurface the head because I would have to take the cams out and all the valves and stuff. I don't know how to do that. When I had it off and was cleaning it up it looked very straight to my eyes. And I do have a good eye for straighness. I will check it with a straight edge too when I remove it this next time. I still have lots of copper spray. I'm assuming I need a new headgasket. It was $140 from Toyota. I probably can re use the gaskets on the turbo. Dam I would be drifting right now if it wasn't for that 1 stupid mess up. Arg I can't believe this still lol. At least I can re use the ARP bolts because they cost me $230. I already drained all my oil. It was a milkshake. An absolute milkshake. I should probably drain all the coolant water too. I always feel better after typing out a long paragraph. I am resting still. I was going hard there! :biglaugh:
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
Like I say, I want to do some drifting. And it will be a very demanding thing that I ask of my engine because I will need to drive 3 hours to get to the racetrack. Over 2 mountain passes. So that is why I mentioned a "reliable 2JZ". But seeing as I wouldn't ever want over 500hp a 7M will probably always be fine for me. But a couple of people have mentioned that rod knock could still happen. Because water got in the bearings... Is there anything I can do to clean that out? Or just oil change/filter a whole bunch.
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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Dang well from driftmotion the head bolts are half that price...

And the head gasket is $80..

The cams are is to remove and the head shop that just surfaced mine all i did was take out the cams and they charged me a even $40 and had it done the next day.