tsrm was so unclear as to where it goes... and that only explains the oil leak i have lol not the coolant into combusion chamber leak. If my only problem was no fipg on the front timing cover area then I would be good to go.
Thinking back. I figured out my mistake and why the head warped. Hopefully I can save other first timers from making this mistake.
When I went to pull of my head I had taken off all that I could think of and see which needed to be taken of in order to free it. I hooked up my engine hoist to the...
Are you using bolts or studs? Are you joking? 105? I might have to try this I have ARP bolts just did a hg job and it's fuked up. I didn't resurface anything though...
I know I still might. I guess most people do the initial torquing when there isn't a turbo and exhaust etc hooked up. Having those things pushing on the head might effect the torquing of the bolts. But it really doesn't take much of a hole to cause your engine to run like shit. The old...
Ok. So here is what i'm thinking right now. At first, no oil dripping from side of headgasket. Even after 2 short test drives. It never leaked. Then I went for a long test drive and boosted it hard. Then this leak developed from the side of the headgasket and also right then I discovered milky...
Hey check thes picture out. This is how my headgasket is right now after my f-ed up repair job. So I SHOULD NOT be able to see the headgasket at all when installed right? BTW I got this hg directly from Toyota
Is that a direct indication to you that the headgasket is out of place? I...
Ok. I'm not concerned about removing the oil pan because I know I still have some black Toyota FIPG to seal it up again. But can I do that without pulling the block? Do I have to remove anything to get the oil pan off? It's an old car so the less things I have to disturb the better.
Like I say, I want to do some drifting. And it will be a very demanding thing that I ask of my engine because I will need to drive 3 hours to get to the racetrack. Over 2 mountain passes. So that is why I mentioned a "reliable 2JZ". But seeing as I wouldn't ever want over 500hp a 7M will...
I'm sorry. I know the 7M is good. I don't think I will give up on it just yet. My Dad helped me but I should have just done it by myself. He drinks and I don't think he knows more about doing a headgasket job then me. He said "the front is good now line up the back of the head". And I believed...
-Ha $180-$250 is about all the money I have left right now. Maybe I will give that a shot. And take my time. If I'm lucky I might make 1 drift event this summer.
-Well that is nice. lol. I wonder how I got all the head bolts in with the headgasket that much out of wack.
Ok I think I got it now. But there is no way I'm spending that kind of money on this engine. That would mean I need all new gaskets. I would need a lot. Plus work. And I've already proved that I can't work on an engine. Yea a nice reliable 2JZ is what I need. Next summer I will do some drifting...
I used the ARP stuff that came with the head bolts. I did it right. Put it on the threads, under the head of the bolt and on the chamfered washer thing.
I never retorqued it yet. I've read that it must always be retorqued on a new install after a couple heat cycles. Unfortunataly I was dumb and...
Hmmm I always thought that you could get away with it as long as it wasn't a metal hg. I used copper spray and a oem headgasket. Plus ARP bolts would clamp down really hard. Wow. Ya lesson learned. It really is finicky and sensitive.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.