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Ok, snapped some shots quickly just outside work with my phone, hopefully they'll help you with what you want. EDIT: Forgot to mention, I'm on 225/40/18's. From the rear of the car: Downpipe: I know it's hard to see, but to the right of the picture, that's the test pipe...

I'll try and snap some shots for you of my setup. It's a BIC divorced downpipe with a 3" version of his thunder exhaust back from there. One of my buddies actually has a problem with scraping his right where the downpipe (or down + up pipe) meet because it looks like it was dipped slightly too...

This. A lot of people will try and put the blame on a component failing before they actually admit they or something they did was the problem. HKS bead type is an equivelant to the Cometic. Many people have had Cometic failures due to a problem with one of the rivets being on the sealing...

And with the EGR cooler gasket, GET THE TOYOTA ONE!!! Can't stress that enough. If you buy an aftermarket one, it will likely be cardboard and it WILL be burnt up and gone without 6 months. I can tell you first hand that it's not a fun job to do when it's all assembled and in the car too....

All of them look like they have the ability to bolt and unbolt a removable silencer in to the tip(s). I personally like the N1 style muffler (straight through cylinder type) design for it's look and sound, but it does come down to a lot of personal preference.

Biggest problem I've seen with exhausts that hang low is either they don't have all their hangers in place or their using rubber bands (the big annoying elastic bands for the hangers) that are WAY too long because they were too frustrated with the RIGHT length for hanging and wanted more room...

I know I was signed up for the 2010 meet in January last year. There were details available before that still. The event took place in June or July, mid month.

Starter is under the intake.

Best case scenario is the plug wasn't tightened in there. If that's the case, you should be able to stick a new one in there and be on your way. On the flip side, the plug could have been over torqued, stripped the threads in the head, and now it won't grab at all. I'd start by checking to...

HKS stopper gasket is one of the best you'll find out there. You'll pay a pretty penny for it, but in high boost applications it's not something to go cheap on.

^ This... ....and your coolant. :icon_razz

You can buy helicoil kits in different sizes. If the hole is stripped out, find an appropriate sized kit with the right thread pitch for those bolts.

Here's where the actual timing is set: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20 If you're thinking about cam setup, yes, the matchmarks at the top should be lined up when the crank is at TDC.

For the others having the same issue, here's probably the best solution... http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php It's a helicoil and stud kit that is 1/16" larger than stock. With the helicoils being steel, you won't have nearly as much problem with the holes stripping...

LSD test like my signature? ;)

It's not always a matter of what's better, but more what the tuner is used to. If you're getting someone else to tune your car for you, find out what systems they are familiar with, which are they most comfortable with. One unit may arguably be better but if the tuner doesn't know the system...

This site was brought up in another thread as well: http://www.andysautosport.com/toyota...ior/body_kits/

I'd double check timing first too, then look over all your vacuum lines and make sure they're all in their right places.

Yeah, and it is a nice clean car fromt he looks of it too.

Right click, save link as! Thanks a ton!