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That could be valve seals too. If they leak a bit, they let a little oil in the cylinder as it sits and it will burn off when you start it back up again.

Hehe, here I thought he was talking about clearances for shims in the valvetrain. That makes a lot more sense now. You have to take off a lot of material and/or stick some pretty big cams in before the valves can start making friends with the pistons.

As for the head gasket questions, here's a few things you need to follow. 1.) If you're using a metal head gasket, get both the bock and head resurfaced. It needs to be incredibly smooth or it will not seal properly. Head gasket manufacturers will be able to give you an RA spec that you can...

It's an electric water turbo, right IJ? ;)

Yeah, you can just bypass the J-tube completely then. The other option is to drill out that pinhole and keep it. No need to though.

I'm running 9.1:1. 57-trim CT spools significantly faster than my buddy who's running 8.4:1. I've got 9-10psi @ 2600rpm, I start seeing boost well before 2,000rpm. Stock fuel system. I've never tried running less than 94 Octane from Chevron.

When is cutoff? I'm signed up but I'm working on a couple buddies with some "other class" cars to get registered. A clean 240sx, 4 door Skyline GTS, and a first gen MR2 Supercharged ;)

No point in opening it up, better to just replace it.

Don't just check and see if it feels solid, check for corrosion under the terminals. My buddies car had this happen to him and it turned out just to be a bit of corrosion under the negative terminal. Pull the grounds off and make sure there's no junk underneath them that would cause...

To go along with that, here's a tire size calculator: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Yeah, I found an article and read that just this morning. The car sees mostly short trips, so I can completely understand that. I try and get it going for a good 30 minute drive at least once a week though.

Just out of curiosity, have you tried unplugging the fan and hooking it up to a battery? I just replaced mine last month because the actual blower died.

Valve stem seals are 5000 miles old. I replaced the head at that time, but left the bottom end and block alone. Bottom end was rebuild ~45,000 miles ago. I just replaced the turbo about 800 miles ago due to excessive shaft play, fins wanting to exist in the same space as the housing...

I'll take it for a few good pulls a gas tank I'd say (stop to 80mph ish, basically first to redline, 2nd to redline, and a little in to 3rd), not a lot of extended periods of time above 3000rpm though. A few could be anywhere from 4+ I'd say....more in the summer time.

Just a curiosity question. My car and the 3 other supra owners (or former owners) I know all burn a little bit of oil between oil changes for as long as any of us have had our cars. I personally don't add more than MAYBE half a litre between oil changes (every 5000km/3125mi, 3 months max) to...

ARP's lubricant and 90lbs here. Been going strong for a couple years now.

Marginally. If you want to take currency conversion in to account it would be $5.40. What's horrible is the price of gas out here is like a yo yo. It had spiked up to that price 2 - 3 days ago, now it's down to $4.93 (currency corrected already). A 25 to 35 cent jump in price of gas per...

I've got some small pieces of pipe welded on the top now instead of the press on tubes. I didn't see the need for having them removeable and they were constantly leaking. I still have a small rubber hose/coupling going to the PCV pipe.

If you are putting an MHG on, you will always want to get it resurfaced. Anything less is gambling. The tolerances are so little that 95% of the time it ends up failing prematurely if you don't.

Local gas here is $5.63/US Gal for 94 octane :(. At these prices, buying a propper ECU replacement and tuning could actually pay themselves off in the long run if you do it right. Gotta think of that when I try and sell the new fuel system to the wife :naughty: