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I'd go with the blue. I just don't think yellow really suits the car, but paint is always a personal opinion. Paint the car what color YOU want it to be, because your thoughts on how it looks is the only thing that REALLY matters ;)

I've got about 14 months and 6,000 miles on a felpro kit for my own rebuild, but I did have to go to Toyota for a new EGR cooler gasket. Most of the aftermarket kits include a paper/cardboard one for that and it needs (not even should, NEEDS) to be a composite gasket or it will burn away...

Shouldn't have a problem supplying 560cc injectors with that pump.

I are busy this weekend :( I swear I'll make it out to one of these RR meets one of these days... lol

Compression check instructions :) http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=20

Yeah, you're options are pretty much machining or a new manifold. Just a thought...if you've got it all apart, you might want to consider doing the manifold stud upgrade. It's common for the studs to strip out of the head, so Driftmotion put together a helicoil + larger diameter studs to help...

STOCK boost in case that's what you were looking for is follows: 5.5 - 7.5psi for M/T 4.8 - 6.0psi for A/T Reference: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=TC&P=5

Fuel cut on a stock system that is running properly with no boost leaks at sea level on a mild day (~60F) will typically be between 11 and 12 psi. And yes, all of those things will affect where it hits. You can usually hit 10psi without much issue assuming you have no boost leaks and...

Also, you will likely have brown/milky stuff under the oil cap just from condensation in the air. Better way of confirming coolant/water in the oil is to crack the oil drain plug and drain a bit in to a clear container so you can see what's coming out. Water and coolant will sink to the bottom...

Do you know if the head gasket has been redone or torqued? That would be a good place to start. Going through and replacing any aged coolant/vacuum lines is a good idea too. Like the guys said, better to invest the money in to taking away as many possible failure points before moving forward...

The fuse is the AM1 fuse in the fuse box right by the battery under in the engine bay. Do you get voltage on the black/blue stripe when the key is in the cranking position at all? Is it the factory or an aftermarket alarm killing it?

There's not really much you can do to "inspect" the bottom end condition without ripping the engine apart unfortunately :(

I'd start by finding out how long it's been running since the head gasket job. I'll second that compression/leak down test as well. The turbo being blown is kind of a downer. That is still a good chunk of change to get the car running properly again.

I'd clean the screen first, see where that gets you. It may just be getting starved due to junk in there. I would assume since you just changed all this that you do have enough fluid in there too ;)

The fuel pump doesn't turn on until the engine is cranked. You can manually test the fuel pump with the car off by jumping two of the pins in that diagnostic port as well. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=71 Did you try cranking the car and have it not start...

Just as IJ said, if it's been sitting for a while (a couple hours) the coolant will be at the bottom of the oil pan. If you crack it and see coolant in there you've got issues. Best thing you can do at this point is definitely not starting it, it will only cause more issues with bearings etc...

Sorry, read through your first post too quickly it seems. Wouldn't hurt to let it sit and try again, that's for sure. Beyond that there's no more that I can really suggest, hopefully someone else will chime in.

Wouldn't a lot of seals be dried up and junk by now? Also, if it has spent considerable amount of time in a show room like that, exposed to lots of light....with factory red paint....I'm pretty sure if you were to take a closer and proper look at it it would be fading.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you have ABS you should go driver rear, passenger rear, driver front, passenger front, using the ABS box as your reference point for bleeding. Also inspect your soft brake lines, make sure they're in good condition. I had to replace mine due to some on/off...

I have a centerforce clutch on my car for a while. Was heavier than a bag of hammers, but it hooked up nicely. I'd consider it again, it performed well, but it was a pain to street.