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Got any pics of the damaged areas?

Im down to see how it turns out on your car. Give her hell. Are you going to put a clear coat on it? Also i am guessing your car is a different color now, what are you going to do about the jams and underhood color?

Driveline angle does not change, with the car off the ground. So, its pretty close to straight, at all times.

Just read through your build thread. Kudos my friend. How is the wiring coming along? How much does it weigh now?

Your not happy with your $35 BOV? huh,.:nono:

Those cheep spring compressors, are dangerous and a pain to use. If you dont have access to a proper compressor, id take them to a good shop and have them swapped out. If you are replacing the top hats, you can have them assembled beforehand, then its just an easy swap. Just my $0.02, you may...

Hydrolock the engine? I agree with the other statements, but hydrolock with fuel, due to coil failure? Not possible.

Wrong. The pump does not run until there is an rpm signal, sent to the ecu. To the OP, are you having a no crank or no start issue? Do the dash lights come on with the key? Which ones come on?

Line up the marks. It may be hard to see but the bottom end is at 0*. IIRC there is a mark on the lower gear and on the oil pump housing. to line up also.

Start here. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=21

Nah, 5 lugs, only 5 holes needed. Dont like the universal fit, look.

mkiiichip/ Dustin

Who sells a 2 piece aftermarket DS?

No this is not ok. Bottom end should be at 0* T-belt is a tooth off.

See how the green wire goes through the B1 plug here? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47 What does the B1 plug look like? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=29 Its in the ecu area. Where? Most abbreviations Toyota uses...

Hope you dont mind a couple of electrical noob questions. What is the thing with all the diodes? Why is it needed? Why does it need a 5V reference? What do the 1k resistors accomplish?

Behind the rear timing cover is a oil only area, that stream of rust may be the issue. Got any pics of the head and head gasket in that area. Also that rear timing gasket sticking up cannot be good. Stock gaskets require FIPG in that area. Not sure if its used with a MHG.

Take the flywheel off and see what happens.

Are you sure about this? After the bottom end was done you could spin it freely? Then you put on the pan on and now it wont turn? The pan would have to be horribly mangled to contact the crank. At this point the bottom end is still savable. But yes, if the motor is in, it has to come out, and...

No problem. The bellhousing one, should be near where the fuel lines come into the engine bay.