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The volt meter you have is good for testing all circuits, including power and ground. Although not user friendly without an expanded basic understanding of electricity. Once again, the pump will not run with the key on. (unless you have a jumper in, or are cranking the engine, or engine running)

All the holes are there to bolt it right up. Did you remove the little cover the master cyl is going to go through? just hold it up with this as a reference point and youll find the others. Also removing the drivers seat makes this job much easier.

Why are you boosting an engine, that wont idle?:nono:

Sounds like you need a new master cylinder. If your going to get one from a local parts store i would recommend "ASIN" brand. Its oem. Likely not a booster problem, but might as well check it. Your going to have it half way off anyway. To check booster, put a vacuum on booster with a handheld...

Check your codes. Only tool needed is a paper-clip. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

yes you have the right inspection panel. the wiring colors changed over the years but this may work. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=33 This link states the fuel pump wires are: Black with red stripe=power White with black stripe=ground The pump needs both...

You need a turbo 5sp (R154) front half, driveshaft. You can use your current rear half, as they are all the same.

Take off all the trim on the inside, lay down in the hatch with a flashlight, have someone hose down the car.

Yes, absolutely. Other than leaking internally, thats where they leak.

Welcome, what are your plans with the current project. Got any pics of past and current projects?

You can also see this effect, in a different way, in many "floating cylinder" engines. Only those engines use the headgasket, with different sized holes to control flow. Shown here... http://www.hybrid-racing.com/store/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/c/r/crv1.jpg

So timing changed in 1000 miles, and you corrected it. How much did you have to correct? What is it at now? What are you idle AFR's? Any oil on the K&N?

If you jump the terminals shown here, with the key on, and no fuel comes from the loosened CSI. Go to the trunk, remove the inspection panel, check for power and ground at the pump. Post up the results.

Thanks for the info. **{thinks to himself}... Now where did i leave that money shovel?** http://www.store.crimptools.com/search.php?search_query=environmental&submit_search=Search

Welcome, sick rides. Pics are a must.

Id like to know more about these environmental splices. The little metal tube is what you crimp to both wires to, right? Then the other part is just shrink-wrap? Do you crimp the wires with the shrink-wrap already in place? Whats the red mark? I can see how this could work very well for a...

i like these two best:naughty: