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To check for a plugged exhaust. take vacuum readings at idle. raise idle to a constant 3000 rpm. vacuum readings should be within 1-2 inhg, of each other. If vacuum drops way down, at a constant higher rpm, you likely have a plugged exhaust. Back pressure tester, should be next if the above...

WTF were they thinking, with the little mounting "tabs" for the pressure plate? Does not seem to be a good way to save weight.

Sounds like your pump is junk. Time to drop the tank. Dont know about the clicking.

Leave both intake manifolds, in the car but unbolted from the head. Have someone hold it out of the way, while you pull the head. Then only the exhaust side stuff has to be unplugged.

Is this the kit you have? http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jzttmk3ickit.php Do you have a clutch fan? If so read the last sentence of the description.

I recently had a customer in need of a MKI power window regulator. This part has been deemed obsolete and no longer available from toyota. (BTW this was a super cool, english accent, ORIGINAL OWNER mki owner (although the car is 5 out of 10 condition, originally in for a smog failure for a...

lol, racing on BHG. 3,2,....

IIRC if you press the pressure plate all the way into the bellhousing, it will hit the bellhousing, but after the clutch fork is installed, and the pressure plate is slid forward, to bolt to the flywheel, you can see there are no clearance issues.

I tried to hint at this earlier, but you know a motor with that kind of blowby needs a rebuild right? As, it is not going to run right until rebuilt, or replaced Compression\leakdown check is a must. But judging from the smoke pouring from the valve covers, i have got a good guess of what youll...

I am looking for new tems cover seals, and from the looks of it, they come with the cover itself. Can anyone confirm this? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=4803&P=1 Anyone ever made their own seals?

umm no. This is how you check ignition timing, which is at 10* http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/setting_timing.aspx Your thinking of cam timing To check cam timing remove upper timing cover line up crank at 0* both cams aligned with notch

1 It looks like you have a blow-by issue, that the previous owner was getting excess amounts of oil in the accordion tube and likely smoking. so he installed a "road draft tube". the source of the blow-by needs to be addressed, and the PCV needs to be put back stock. 2 Does that electric fan...

If you bypass the vsv, hot coolant should constantly flow through the heater core. And you should have heat.

I just went through this. toyota told me that i needed to produce a registration, of a legally imported car, to purchase the bellhousing (same thing with cam seals). No american JZ's came bolted to the R154. So i ordered from driftmotion. They sell the toyota bellhousing. I think its a cali thing.

If you have a TEMS car, I think the worst part is taking out the hatch, interior pieces.

Its always nice to see an original idea. I dont think id be able to tell what it was if i was driving behind him though, and if i did figure it out, i would be overcome with WTF?

The head gaskets are the same between 1j and 2j, so any aftermarket gasket will work. the jz are not known fro blowing HG, like the 7m. Stock should be fine, but if your going through the trouble of machining, why not upgrade...

After it is unbolted, there is only an o-ring "holding" it in there, a little more wiggle and allot more pull should do it.

So you took a 2.5 hr drive in 90* heat, without AC, and you were hot? Get out... WTF could be causing this?

Although likely not the issue, the two vacuum ports on the throttle body are ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum. This is not the port you wold use for the AFPR, it needs manifold vacuum. Hard to tell where the other one currently goes to, but id guess the heater valve. Which is not the right...