Search results

There is no valve, but there is a restriction at the throttle body, to allow a small amount of flow either way, (to flow one way while under vacuum, and the other way under bost.) This needs to be clear to allow vapors to flow.

If your ecu has two rows of pins click on the link at the top, here. http://docs.azsupracentral.com/ If your ecu has four rows of pins click here. http://img322.imageshack.us/img322/3503/jzz309gp.jpg More info on a soarer 1j http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/3442/45957.html

The only difference in the electrical system, is the clutch wiring. Apply power to the connector going from the body harness to the clutch. If the clutch moves, your good to go.

Oh ic There are steps that need to be taken to have a properly charged and working system. There is no point in doing it out of order. Bypassing something is not going to tell you if the system is going to work. You could try to fill it, but it needs to be evacuated, again missing steps.

Piece of cake, you need the 2j compressor, 7m compressor head (the part that bolts to the compressor, and the lines bolt to) and 7m lines. Then all you have to do is ground one of the wires to the 2j clutch, find the wire that went to the 7m compressor clutch (comes from between the battery and...

You at least need a down pipe to drive the car, unless you like your supra crispy.

Did it work before the swap? Do You have all the componets, or is everything missing.

Please explain how many, and where you installed block off plates for the egr. On the stock system there is a little wire from the fuse block to the pos battery terminal, does that still have power at all times? Pics of new battery setup?

Did you get the grounds, there are two down there. And the trans connectors, starter signal wire, 2 knock sensors, 2 VSVs,

The heavy gauge wire from the starter goes directly to the battery pos terminal. The alt charge wire is part of the body harness. Near the battery there are two heavy gauge wires crimped together (and originally bolted directly to the 7m alt), they need to be extended to reach the new alt location.

You took off the down pipe ant it now boosts 10 psi? You have a clogged cat or muffler. 10 psi should be fine if you have no boostleaks.

Sick setup. How do you monitor your AFR? What kind of fuel pump setup are you using for the E85?

You are not paying attention

No cel at any time usually means no power to the ECU. The connectors left hanging in the ECU area, need to be swapped to the proper connector and connected.

I dont get how you can see the crank is at 4*, but cant find tdc, so here you go. Your cam timing is off. crank needs to be at 0* its not hard to find.

^ that would be helpful if the setup was even close to stock, which it is not. There a few manifold vac lines; there is a small line at the back of the intake, below the brake booster line the brake booster line one that you are currently using for BOV one that the stock system uses for BOV...

FPR's need manifold vacuum. Youll need to reset the fuel pressure. The 2 small lines on the TB are ported vacuum (not manifold vacuum), and are for evap and EGR, and it looks like you dont have either one, so cap those lines (at the TB) and start fresh. The "stock sensor assy turbo pressure"...

Lol not what i expected when i came in here. Great looking car though.

If your trying to vent to atmosphere, why not install your special valve near the tank and call it a day, no cc necessary.

Where does the T on the BOV signal go? Why are you using ported vacuum on the FPR? Where does the other end of that T go?