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Hold on... You just rebuilt the motor and are now NOT able to turn the motor over by hand? You need to quit worrying about installing the trans, and take the pan back off. You have got a MAJOR issue, dont even think about installing this motor.

If the clicking is coming from the ISCV, after shutdown, its normal. Thats one of the TSRM checks for it.

Neg battery to block Head to firewall Bellhousing to tunnel Rear of trans to body

Remember a misfire messes with the wideband readings, sending a false lean signal. Durring a misfire there is a rush of oxygen (picked up by the wideband as lean) and raw fuel that the wideband does not notice at all. I noticed you all were on the right track, and starting to look for...

There is no problem dropping the motor fully dressed. If i understand your question properly.

So have you done the TSRM checks? Stock idle gauge readings (not reliable) will read 0 at hot idle. Post your readings, (with an actual pressure gauge) at idle and 3000 RPM? Why are you running valvoline? let alone 10w40?

He is not trying to pull engine codes. There is a different procedure for pulling ABS codes.

Seriously guys? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=52 To the OP, that is very strange. Are you sure you have the right connector? I am not close enough to my car to see if there is another one, that it can be confused with. Hopefully jetjock will chime in.

Shown here http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46 Youll notice that the 7m computer uses a green wire to signal the fuel pump relay (aka circuit opening relay), you need to ground this wire, to run the pump. Do you have Spark?

Welcome. This is the introduction area (where you introduce yourself and your car) Tech Questions for at GTE go here http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?8-7M-GTE-Engine-Technical-Discussion Maintenance before mods.

Wait for the proper gasket. From your post it seems that the head is still off, you dont want to do this gasket with the head installed in the car. (especially after you used a crapy gasket, while the back of the head was still accessible)

That was fun, usually after your vague posts i am left thinking WTF,.. is he talking about? Hey i got this one. lol Definitely a cool mod JJ. BTW while your link is easier to read the words, for some reason, I find it allot easier to follow Toyota's diagrams. Not sure why though.

That sounds like a killer idea. Lets see if i can figure out this one. Using this source. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=30 Would you cut the "yellow" wire and splice into the "light blue with red"?

Nice cars, great shots. Looks like fun. Is that an engine oil cooler on your bumper? I have seen that on other cars, but didnt think it would look good on a sup, but you pulled it off well. kudos.

Why havent you replaced the accordion tube? Your AFM basically "counts" air, any air the motor consumes without the AFM knowing about it, is bad. Yes leaks are bad in the accordion and intercooler piping. Also relays are there for a reason. Why not just figure out why it is not being signaled?

How are you signaling the fuel pump relay?

Coolant is leaking out of the overflow, or is coolant coming out the top, from being overfilled (i am not saying you overfilled it, but it overflows after a drive, right?)? If its the second one, replace the rad cap, and inspect the TWO sealing surfaces on the rad where the cap seals, for...

A bad brake booster, is a vacuum leak. Put a vacuum pump on the line to see if it holds. Or unplug the line and cap it, and see if it runs different.

What was stopping you from removing the harness?

Bad master wont do that. Bad brake booster will though.