is there much difference between models/makes of charcoal canister? like could i use a 80 chevy canister? they all have 3 lines, i assume one for vacuum, one to the tank, and one for venting.
that's the muffler i grabbed, sounds nice, close to the fx35, but a bit louder. i think i'm gonna add a 2nd resonator to help with that. and it's straight through design helps with flow as well.
130 is a little low, usually around 160-175 with stock cams. did you check compression when it was cold? did you do 3 complete revolutions of the engine? did you hold the throttle open when you did it?
might as well check cylinder #2 just to compare
just plug in the coil pack and plug, and...
shouldn't be normal, probably want to do a compression test to verify cylinder#1 is ok
i use a mustang o2 sensor ($40 from canadian tire), but it's a screw-in type, same thread as a wideband, and i just replaced it 3 weeks ago, and my code 21 stopped.
code 13 is for the cam sensors, but it means only 1 circuit is bad if your car is still running ok because the ecu can choose which cam sensor to read, and it knows one is bad, so it's using the other right now. could be the sensor, or the wiring.
smoke at startup that goes away when it warms...
if you rev slowly, it'll stop around 7250, but if you go wot, mine goes to around 7500 as well (as per my avc-r). i think i logged around 7451 rpms to be exact
blew my old engine with stage 2 cams, now my replacement engine is running pretty good for the past few months, so i think it's time to get these cams in since zazzn won't stop busting balls how his is faster than mine, so i'd rather not throw these in and contaminate the oil with metal. i was...
i don't have any experience with the jzz30 harness, but with my aristo/jza70 harness', i just traced each wire using the 3-page EFI diagram, and ran them to their appropriate pin.
i'm curious, why do you need to find where every wire goes? why not just lengthen it wire for wire, then trace back...
only a 2jz-ge flywheel will work with a w58 mated to a jz engine. i think you still have to use the 2jz-ge clutch as well, i think the 7m w58 pressure plate is different.
try the is300 forums for the bell housing and flywheel. but i tried searching a few years ago for about 3 months and no...
yeah, alright, well i've been going throw some wiring diagrams seeing what to check and what to jump, and i'm tired. i'm just gonna slap in my old climate control unit tomorrow and see what happens.
thanks for the help everyone, i'll update it shortly hopefully with good news.
ok, so you're referring to the vent flappers behind the dash.
well what's weird is i heard them "buzzing" when i pressed the buttons with my old climate control unit, but i switched to the 89+ style, and now i don't hear it. i was under the impression that they were both compatible?
car was running at night when i checked the low side, around 77*F, so pretty close to your chart there.
nah, my friend has my gauges right now, i'll be grabbing them shortly.
but if the line going into the evaporator is cold, shouldn't that mean there is a problem behind the dash with either...
really? i read that too much oil will hinder the cooling. but ok, i'll go and slap on some gauges and find out.
from what he said, he said he added about 1.7lbs
what exactly am i looking at with the dual pressure switch? i know the compressor is turning on because i can see the clutch...
well i changed the receiver drier, the compressor, and the expansion valve, and all the seals, then took my supe to get professionally serviced. well i told the guy that i only needed an extra 10cc/0.4oz of oil (which is what the TSRM calls for when installing new receiver/drier) added to the...
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