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so your wideband was reading one thing one day, and a completely different one the next? like mine still switches constantly between 14.3-14.9, and if i use the engine to slow me down it pings 21:1, so i'm pretty sure it's working, but i wouldn't have thought it would give two different...

25psi with vac on and 720's

hey, a little history, it's a 2jz with 1j ecu and emu (tuned via injector map), and originally i tuned it and it ran perfect with afr's at cruise and low throttle acceleration were around 14.7. but then the next day, it was like 12.8:1. and then today i had to go on a drive for 30 minutes...

when you say you tested the tps, does that mean you calibrated it with feeler gauges?

no, turbo seals. valve seals mainly leak at startup because they are cold, but once they get hot, they expand and seal better. usually turbo seals do that on decelleration

i dunno about that, i ran a vpc with it disconnected, and didn't notice a difference you sure the map is good/connected?

pretty much plug and play, there are a few differences in certain connectors over the years like temp sensor, and some knock sensors, but pretty much the same.

do not confuse ignition timing with valve timing. the timing marks on the cam/crank gears all should be at 12 o'clock roughly, the 1jz exhaust cam is at like 12:15 or something, they should line up with the marks on the back timing cover. the best way to check the crank gear is on right is to...

throw on your old air filter setup, and see if you still hear that noise.

zazzn's car was doing that when his rpm wire was cut (for his rev limiter). it would start for a split second, then die. exactly how your video is actually. but, just a thought. could be ignitor/crank sensor/trigger wheel (mine kinda acted like that when the trigger wheel broke).

1jz motor mounts out of a 1jz jza70 supra will mount a 1jz engine in a 1989+ ma70 chassis with round motormounts, yes. but you need a rear-sump oil pan

my 2j is about 5.5-6 liters i'd pull the valve cover and verify the oil galleries aren't clogged with gummed up oil and crap.

the guy didn't buy a part for half price, he bought it for $10 less than an aeromotive one, so i don't know why you're saying "you get what you pay for". certain companies sell the same part for slightly less or more, so how was this any different? further, he even said, don't respond if you're...

the p/s lines are different between GE and GTE, that's why i mentioned it. you can use the stock GE one, but others choose not to. and still, it's not custom, it's a stock 2jz hose, and cheap at that, $80cad the p/s reservoir most people just re-locate your GE or GTE one, nothing special about...

the metal gaskets i've seen only have a coating on the outer sides, so even when new, they are only coated on the outside, not the inside, so i would only do the outside as long as the inside layers are clean from contaminents

you just look at the coil packs, you don't meter them. i have not seen one set of jdm coil packs are all perfect, so you might as well pickup some clear nailpolish and pull them, and put a few coats on. i'd do that first, and go from there. coil pack connectors maybe, but i doubt it. they're...

i disagree. everything involved in a 7mge-->7mgte swap is the same as swapping in a 2jz, except wiring, but that doesn't cost any money, just time in wiring in some a70 body connectors (whether you run it off a 1jz ecu or an aristo ecu). p/s you are changing the high pressure line just like...

same as a 7m-ge-->7m-gte, just an extra $1500-$3000 in parts

damn, mine are like 4.9% with 720cc injectors at 800rpms, sequential as well.

jump the clutch and see if it works, but it could be a low pressure switch causing it not to turn on if it's low on freon like mentioned above.