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how the hell is your oil pressure 65psi at idle when warm? when i start my car up, i hit about 90psi (6bar on my greddy electric gauge), but then i goes down to about 20psi (1.4bar) when hot at idle. at cruise, i have just over 1bar per 1k of rpms, so 2k=2.2bar, 3k=3.3bar, etc. when it runs...

i am running it at 25psi with my gt40r. and i dunno wtf the guy above is talking about, the greddy pressure sensor reads up to 43psi (http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/pressure_sensor/index.html). only things i don't like are that the 2step doesn't work without throwing an IGF engine code...

considering i like my idle stock at 650-700 rpms, if i were to get the underdrive pulley version, it would mess with my p/s and my alternator charging, so i'm fine with the non-underdrive version

what about the boost logic SFI approved crank pulley? http://www.boostlogic.com/xcart/product.php?productid=79&cat=5&page=1

i didn't see a 0.64 a/r for the exhaust housing anywhere? the smallest i saw was 0.85, and that's what i got

not right now. i'll get some if you want. but my setup is for a big single, not the twins. oil drain line went down and has a little bend in it to keep it 1-2" away from the manifold.

mid sump pan is fine, i used it in both my 89+ crossmember and my 86.5 crossmember. you don't have to change anything, you have the windage, pickup, and both upper and lower pans.

you checked the dome fuse by the driver side kickpanel? there's no way your car is running without a tach signal, problem is with wiring from m1 connector to tach or the tach itself.

can you find out what it's crossed with? like if you pull the fuses till you find the circuit that is supplying power to the headlight. i had a similar problem where my efi circuit was crossed with my AM2 circuit about 12" from the fusebox. my avc-r and wideband and ecu's were staying on...

ok, well swap the iac, and re-calibrate your tps.

there was a wiring diagram on the "other" forums if you want to try searching. maybe try reversing the two wires that supply constant 12v, and switched 12v's

uhhh, isn't that the fuse that is bolted from the underneath? or maybe that's another one. i thought you said you had your car tested, and the charging was fine?

make sure you get a GOOD shop to rebuild yours, i've rod knocked 5 2j's, and 4 of those were freshly rebuilt that only last 200 km's before my oil had so much metal in it, it blinded me in the sunlight. (and no, it wasn't my fault, i cleaned everything out, including oil cooler and turbo, even...

sounds like a loose connection. my buddy blew 4 alternators on his sr20 with similar symptoms...........the loose connection was causing too much resistance in the alternator charging circuit, and fried his alternator. so i'd check where you did your splice from the alternator, and the other two...

try re-calibrating your tps. usually code 14 means your car won't run, i guess check the resistance of your cam/crank sensors..........usually it's the cam sensor if your car will run, since the ecu knows one is shot, and it can choose to only accept input from the other "good" one. or your...

nail polish only buys you some time..........i pulled my coil packs out, and the nail polish was all burned off, pretty cool actually. i tried epoxy, but it didn't stick. then i read the back, and it said "does not work on polyethylene and polypropylene plastics".......so try to avoid those kinds.

what's your vacuum at idle? maybe your coil packs are toast, my car would breakup like mad around 5-6k when mine were going.

i used a 92 mustang 3-wire sensor, works perfectly.........only thing is, it's m18x1.5 threaded (just like the wideband), so i've been using that with no problems. it's like $30

one time the starter method didn't work on my old 7m, so what i did was position the pipe 180 degrees back so the engine would turn half way and build up some momentum before the bar hit the ground, and that got her to go.

dome fuse, i just blew mine last week, both tach and water temp dropped, but everything else worked.