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do you mean to say that when you hookup your pressure tester to the intake of the turbo, and cap it at the intercooler, it will only hold 5psi? if so, then obviously that's your probably, not your oil pressure. you said you pressure tested the intake side to 20psi fine, so i assume you mean the...

yes, you can. done it before. dropping the pan without pulling the engine is a bitch though. i've changed the thrust washers with the engine on a stand, and the crank still in there. kinda gotta pry the crank to one side, slide the washers in and around the back side, then pry back to the...

what ecu are you running? sounds like the ecu caps if it's a 1jz ecu (i run a 1j ecu on my 2j), especially if it's missing on two cylinders. pull the plugs. two of mine were pure black from those cylinders dumping fuel.

what about your charcoal canister? is the tank vent plugged causing it to cavitate? i had a similar problem, but it doesn't explain why after it initially dies, it drives fine. i think if it was alternator, your lights should dim and your voltage gauge (if you have one) should show it. and...

ah, are you fucking serious? every thread i have read said this Royal Purple works wonders in the r154, and is even better than Redline MT-90? man, i just spent $108 on this shit...............unbelievable. ok Jdub, so i guess you're saying i should drain it, and try some redline? edit: you...

ok, so after 300km's of this super expensive Royal Purple oil, and new Marlin Crawler shifter bushings, i am still having the same damn issue. any other ideas?

you're right, the tsrm does say the minimum pressure is around 10psi at idle. all i'm saying is that is the minimum, and something is on it's way out if he's at the minimum. dslocal, i would say open up the oil pump and check it's clearances if you can, and compare to the TSRM.

10psi doesn't sound right on a jz engine. at 700rpms on my past 6 2j's, i have had 1.3-1.5bar when hot. so that's almost double what you have. either your oil is shit, or you bottom end/oil pump is going. also, it does matter where you mounted your oil pressure sensor. i have a greddy one in...

yeah, my shifter bushings are hurting, but i didn't think they were affected by heat.........i've been meaning to order a set from DM. ok, i'll throw in some redline, and order up those bushings from DM now.

sorry jeff, i thought this fell under technical jdub, so you're saying you would agree, it's the clutch disc no sliding on the input shaft?

replaced the master 2 months ago. and yeah, i know about the friction modifiers, but would it get worse with temperature?

as the title says, car drives perfect when cold, but after about 30 minutes of driving, it will be hard to shift, especially into 1st (from a stop). things i have checked/done: -adjusted clutch pedal to have more travel (release clutch more) -verified tranny fluid level is good it...

my car is a 1986.5, and the laws in canada allow me to be exempt from emissions. however, i feel guilty driving around with a non-functioning cat. i originally bought a magnaflow one 3" in/out, only to find that it is a 2-way cat, not a 3-way cat. i also bought the same cat for my volvo, and it...

i would still prefer to have a functioning cat on my car.

looking for a new cat. there seems to be a couple of different kinds, and i was wondering which is more efficient. there are three different converter substrate materials, ceramic, monolithic, and metallic. anyone know which one is better? and there are ones meant for 4500 lbs vehicles, and...

damn, you guys are killing me. i BARELY get 300 per tank, and thats with 18's, a 3.73 and me barely boosting............even on the highway, my mileage isn't that much better, like 350 per tank. i even drove around town logging with my afr (no boosting), and my afr never dropped below 14.2:1 at...

not everything gets caught by the oil filter, gonna have to clean everything you want to reuse

yeah, my bad, i didn't realize it was really 2 years ago when that happened. i retract my previous statement, and blame it on the clutch then.........another reason why i raised my rpms to 1k to get the oil pressure above 20psi when i press in the clutch. jdub, thank you for clarifying that...

eric is leaving out one little piece of information.................when we installed those cams (against my wishes), and the very next day his oil was silver/grey, even though we shimmed the valve lash to the tight side of the TSRM specs.........we later shimmed them another 2 thou tighter...

your fans have the polarity reversed? they are pulling instead of pushing. i did that before, and whenever i would drive fast, the fans would push against the air coming in, and not cool the rad. picture the airflow like this: --> <-- so it would cancel each other out, and not...