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i opened mine up just to check to see if any of the capacitors were starting to leak. usually they'll start to leak slowly and the ecu will still work, so you have some time before it completely dies. search for pictures on replacing capacitors, and you'll see pics. i dunno what else to look for?

i figured out the code13, stupid adjustable cam gears i bought 2 years ago wore down, and was not aligned properly, was causing me to throw code13.......that seems to have fixed the hesitation thanks guys

well finally got this new engine running, and it's running pretty smooth, but whenever i give it gas, it'll hesitate for a second, then rev up. the rpms drop a bit, then rise quickly. things i've tried/though: thought it was lack of fuel, so i upped the fuel pressure 10 pounds at idle...

yeah, i was thinking that too.........nutserts i haven't heard of, i'll google them. thanks for the input!

ah, ok. so it's just the bolt patten that i should worried about? all i have to do is drill and tap the new pattern and everything else should be fine?

hey guys, i've ran my 2j in my old 89 shell (originally na manual) with no problems, but now that i switched to my new 86.5 shell (originally na auto), i'm having trouble with the tranny. i know people said (from all the searching i did) that an auto-->manual conversion is easy, no cutting...

are you pulling any codes? maybe injector drivers if all else checks out? try swapping ecu's, fairly quick/easy to do

crankwalk means metal particles in the oil, which means anything that uses oil (turbo's, cams, bottom end) will be grenaded. stop driving it now, drop the lower pan, pull the 4th main journal cap, and swap out the thrust washers. yes, you can do it with it still in the car, it's just a bit tight

twin discs require half the pressure that a single disc clutch requires to hold the same amount of power (because it has twice the surface area to grab or some bullshit). you might be able to salvage it if you only grenaded the thrust washers. pull the lower pan and pull the 4th main journal...

i wired everything behind the dash where the stock ecu is, no problems here.

it looks like the upper will fit if you chop a few inches off each end, but i don't think the lower will. the mkiv rad is longer than ours, so it might just need trimming as well, but i'm not sure.

the ignitor has a wire that is folded up underneath the cover, it just pulls out. i can't remember the color of it though, but you'll be able to tell

well since it started when you swapped turbos, why don't you pull off the intake pipes for the turbo's and hold the wheels from spinning, and see if the screeching stops? otherwise, get a hose, put it to your ear, and move it around to waterpump, p/s cam gears, and everything else looking for...

regular 89+ mounts work fine for me

i've already verified continuity between all 4 tps wires from ecu to the tps plug, same with the map sensor, and the cam sensors and crank sensor. i had a problem when i first did the swap where the engine wouldn't start. turned out i reversed the polarity on the 2nd cam sensor, so i checked all...

tps is brand new from toyota, and a wiring problem is a little vague. do you know specifically where to look, cause my car runs great and all, just base timing is 22*.

that tip only works if you can get your damn timing down to 10 degrees. i never have been able too, mine always shows ~22 degrees with e1 and te1 jumped

i know how to do it, and i've done it a bunch of times, just now i can't find the damn specs on it. the pins are IDL and E2, i just wasn't sure the feeler gauge size to use, so if it's 0.4mm, then i'll do that tomorrow. where did you get the specs from, or are you just recalling it from...

i have searched for hours, i can't *ucking find it damn it. can anyone please show me where to get it, or tell me if it's the same as the 7m-gte resistances. thanks

yeah, i spent the time and did the same thing with epoxy. one thing i missed the first time is that on 2 or 3 of my coil packs, i have cracks along the bottom shaft of the coil pack, like where the blue boot sits on and connects to the plug. i pulled those off, and i have a crack about 1.5" long...