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i was under the impression that it was in a front end collision, and once i got bumped from behind from some guy going like 10km/hr, but other than that, no. but how are you supposed to check? like i did jack it up and look underneath for a good 5-10 minutes, and the only thing i saw that...

fyi red87tII, my original post was stating that you can throw a jz engine into those cars (cressida, ae86, aristo, and certain soarer's) with a front sump pan, so if you find someone doing a jz swap into one of those cars, you can sell it to them.

i understand bent parts will change angles, but the bent part that i can see, is on the opposite side! so my real question is what can i check that will change ride height. i know most of the parts in the attached pic above will change camber, caster and toe, but what will change ride height?

got an 89 turbo, with a 2" difference in ride height between the two sides. i have verified it is not the suspension as i have swapped coilovers between the two sides, and the ride height remains the same. i took a quick look underneath, and noticed that the (what Toyota calls) "strut rod" is...

take off the flywheel and screw the bolt back into the crank while turning it until it hits the block and locks the crank?

cressida and ae86 and one other one can use front sump, i think soarer.........so it depends on the audience, if you can find someone with either of those cars, yeah

to which things are you referring? i have over torqued the flywheel a few times, but other times i have torqued them to spec, and it still broke...and i don't see how over torqueing the pressure plate bolts affect anything as my friend does it the same way, but yeah, i probably have.

brewster, try changing flywheels. that is the only thing i didn't do, and in the end, the os giken came with it's own flywheel. good luck.

at least yours isn't off 16 degrees when all the marks line up and the cam/crank sensor's are within spec.

that's what i did for my friend. though, i have hookups at an emissions testing. we got his SR20 to pass no problem. the limit is increased by 6 fold or something. but clarify, what is the problem with using this method? i heard the engine has to be bigger than the original engine that came...

well, i guess you have to get another usdm one then?

how did you hook it up? did you use the jdm throttle body, or the usdm one? cause one is designed for the pushrod linkage (usdm), and one goes straight to the throttle body (jdm). not to mention they are different lengths cause one is for lhd, and the other rhd. i'm pretty sure you need a usdm...

well, all the flywheel bolts check out, proper size, bolt holes in the flywheel are proper size (bolts fit with very very little play). i even double checked that all the flywheel bolt holes are the same size, and they are. flywheel has the 20 thou step in it. flywheel height is about ~1.329"...

89jdm7m: thank you for your response, but if you read one of my other posts in this thread, you would've read me saying "sorry, it must have either been an 87, or an 86.5 with a gte swap already done to it" nashman: i know i adjusted the pedal correctly has a had about 3/4" of freeplay in the...

no no, i just had an old w58 flywheel to compare it with, i'm using the proper release system and proper clutch and proper flywheel

well, pulled the tranny and flywheel today in the rain, and i've verified the bolt holes in the flywheel are the correct size as they match perfectly to the ones in the stock w58 flywheel (a spare i had laying around) bolt holes. so does anyone know how to measure the flywheel step? i was...

bah, must have been a gte swap, or it was an '87, i don't remember but if it's a bad flywheel, how can you tell?

what if i have crank walk? it woud kinda explain why it only happens when i floor it (crank pushes forward and somehow causes pp to break). also, i've noticed that i have a slight vibration that goes up with rpm, but i just assumed it was a loose engine mount or something touching the frame like...

yeah, i have another r154 i am probably going to try next after i rip it all apart again, and verify the flywheel hieight and some crank specs. hopefully someone will have their engine outside of their car so i can compare my measurements to theirs.

local shop in toronto that builds them. yeah, i'm pretty sure the input shaft was fine cause it was pulled from a perfectly fine running car, but i will double check again. but if the input shaft was slightly bent, i'm pretty sure it would be causing some hardcore vibrations. either way, when...