When tapping in the new oil seals be sure that you don't tap them in too far...they should be flush with the hub...NOT recessed.
The oil seals are a PITA but if you are patient and take your time you will get it.
Aligning the hub in the press is the hardest part...just take your time and...
Ok I followed the above steps and it idles fantastic!
But i am still getting a weird kind of miss...I was looking through the TSRM and it seems to be the emissions fuel cut. To test...the TSRM says disconnect the tps plug then slowly raise the rpm...fuel will cut at 1800 and come back on at...
Wonderful! Thanks a bunch! I will do this tonight!
I did not think to remove the linkage...dohh
Where is a good place to learn how the EFI system works?
I had been fighting with getting my TPS set correctly for the past few days and last night I bought an analog multimeter and finally got it dialed in.
I first set the throttle stop screw so that the throttle gap was 0.0015'', I then slowly rotated the TPS until it deflected and tightened it...
Instead of being a jerk about it you should have explain how it all works...or point me in the direction to learn it. We are all here to learn...not to have people like you make us feel stupid and take the fun out of working on our cars.
Seems like alot of your posts are rude and sarcastic...
oh do explain
Engine has a miss while holding low throttle setting...I think (critically) that the TPS might be out of cal and at low throttle it is right on the edge of the idle map and the transient map...so I check the TPS and it is out of spec...I try to cal the TPS by following the TSRM...
I just tried to set the TPS by following the TSRM instructions and it never deflects to infinite resistance. I can go all the way clockwise and it doesnt go past 2.3k ohms...
I was trying to calibrate my TPS last night by following JSeaman's guide but I could never get to infinite resistance with the TPS rotated fully anti-clockwise...Does this mean my TPS is bad??
http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/55-guide-calibrating-tps-throttle-position-sensor/
Thanks for your input!!
I guess I will have to rethink my CT26 plan...
Do you think $7500 is enough to get me where I want to be? I haven't sat down and priced everything out yet but from some quick looks it seems like internals will be about $1000, head work $1500, standalone $1000...
I want something that will smoke Vipers, Z06s, and Gallardos but that is reliable enough to do a 1000 mile road trip without worry.
I am pretty much set on keeping the 7M with a CT26...either 57 or 60 trim. I'm thinking around $7500 and 6 months.
I am looking to do my first engine build toward the end of this year so I am starting my research.
Does anyone know of any books about engine builds and/or how to choose parts that work well together and stuff like that?
Thanks!
-JP-
It only clunks when the driveline gets loaded or unloaded.
When I am stopped and put it in gear (1st or reverse) and start to let out the clutch, right when the clutch started to engage it makes a single clunk, once I am in motion it sounds fine. When I push in the clutch to change gears I...
Changed my rear diff fluid to the ford with friction modifier. Fixed my tail light problem, turns out it was the ground...not the bulb...the plastic housing is so crispy that the ground screw wasn't making good contact, so I added in a few washers and boom no more tail light error light.
Changed the rear diff fluid to the ford with friction modifier and it did not get rid of the clunk. I sprayed a can of brake cleaner in the housing to clean out as much of the RP synthetic as I could and then blew the housing out with compressed air to ensure the brake cleaners was fully...
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