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The sensors each look like a 2-wire coolant sensor, screwed into the high side a/c metal line, running along the frame. If you are not using a/c, then they won't matter.

Well, first thought is...battery disconnected means the car must be driven and restarted a few times for the ECU to 're-learn' its drive pattern. Although, the usual problem is a 'no idle' and/or stall for a while. How long did it take you to do the job??? How was the tensioner??? Seals??

CSI only operates when engine temp drops below 56*. Then it only operates for a few seconds, so you don't flood the engine. I believe you have other problems. Check codes. test ECU temp sender (thermo housing) fo proper values. ECU may think engine is warm already. Test fuel pressure...

There are 2 connectors near the frame that are used by the a/c system. They go to the 2 pressure sensors on the a/c 'high side' line.

:biglaugh: For many years I've run a 180* stat in summer with NO problems, and a 195* stat in winter to get better heater ops. Fans are only there for/working below 30mph and idle. When engine is fully warmed up (after 20 minutes), 200* is considered a normal temp. Be sure NOT to run...

Yep...that's right. :nono: It just raises/lowers line pressure for bit harder/softer shift feel (clutch pack application). So that won't help. :icon_mad:

WHY DO IT MORE THAN ONCE........ replace: the t-belt tensioner cam and crank seals 3 drive belts a/c belt tension pulley upper hose 3-4hrs 1st time....1.5-2hrs after that.

Cam seals leak sooner, and more often than crankseal on the 7m. Easy job checking and replacing. But...both the crank and cam seals would normally let the leaking oil out at the bottom of the timing cover thru the little drain hole. Then the oil would blow down and back, coating the...

This does sound like a normal occurance. If you keep the pedal floored, the tranny will likely stay in 2nd gear until you blowup or let up. My '89 owners manual states.... NOTICE: Be careful not to overrev the engine. Watch the Tachometer to keep the engine rpm from going into the red...

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/tf-Browse/s-10101/N-111+10201+600001926/c-10101 and I saw the Supra MKIII turbo 3-piece one in their catalog.

Check these... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/graphics/vacuum_3h.gif http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/graphics/vacuum_4h.gif http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx

just do a google search for toyots supra VIN definitions, or explanation. I found it once. After you find it, post the link, please.:biglaugh:

I believe you, because its true, right out of my 1989 Toyota Owner's Manual (dealer still has them, $15):biglaugh:

Read this and learn a bit about using MHG - vs- regular gasket. http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/eb30320.htm

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28070

I doubt it will effect running in winter. You can always hook it back up if you feel its needed. Its there mainly for emission control.

I doubt it will effect running in winter. You can always hook it back up if you feel its needed. Its there for emmision control.

see........... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28070

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/

I'm sure he checked the fluid level, and made sure its at the correct level.:biglaugh: Its an automatic, so he can't do that. I put a bolt into one of the threaded holes, then use a large screwdriver or prybar wedged, and then tighten mine by hand with a 1/2" breaker bar. Then for added...