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The stock temp is 195*F. I live in the mojave desert. 106*F is summer. Freezing is winter. I run 180* stat in summer, and 195* in winter (for decent heater). More important than thermostat temp is a very good cooling system, and radiator. AND...a fan that pulls a lot of air for city...

You should download this PDF version to keep on your hard drive. Its easier to scroll thru the pages, too. http://groundsky.co.nz/techinfo/TSRM/

#6 is where the common BHG happens, but 9x outa 10, the combustion pressure over pressurizes the coolant, and you get water going to the bottle. But rusty looking sparkplug is strange. how do other plugs look??

Could be just some small oil leak that is 'cooking' and you will only smell it when you are stopped. Look for oil on some hot parts.

Spray everything down with WD40. That is what WD40 was designed for, protecting the metal used for building space ships and rockets from corrosion. Every piece of raw metal that came into the warehouse at Cape Canaveral had a coating of WD40 on it. I hated having to wash my hands all the...

The desert is fun, cause there's lots of room to put the pedal to the metal. I've only taken it up to 142, but there was more pedal. I guess its best to just know there's a little more in there. A/C works great ! Heater works great, too ! Some BIG mtns are just 40 min south, and I LOVE...

Very important with these...make sure the surfaces are very clean, and try to determine that they are good, with no corrosion or 'niks'.

OK....is everybody ready??????? The cover in question is part of the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. Remove the bolts, then the cover, and clean it all out, cause it will be full of soft carbon crap. There is a gasket available, or just use a little sealer. The way it all works...

I hate 'banjo' fittings ! They are the hardest type to stop leaks.

Sorry to be the one...but the 'blades' don't 'wear out'. Also, folks, he asked if his pump was 'working', not if it was leaking. To see if your pump is working, lower the level of coolant in the radiator to 'just above' the core tubes. With the cap off, start the engine and let it idle...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=A&Page=13:biglaugh:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm bookmark this site for future reference:biglaugh:

Per years of my brake job experiences, and per "motor" magazine article.........brake squeal has been a problem since brakes were invented. Some cars will always have it, others only at certain times, or pads, or dirt, or dust, or ........... get the picture?

Silcone gasket maker. Buy anywhere. Just a thin coat applied by finger.

There is a tensioner pully for the a/c belt.

Sounds to me like you could tie the lines into the 3/8" coolant 'by-pass' hose, the one behind the thermostat housing. And its seems to me that you could just use a cheap 'universal' electric fuel pump, along with the timer switch.

10mm allen socket, 3/8" drive, about 4-6" long, from Sears, tool truck, or good auto parts store.

Did you loosen the "pivot" bolt ?? It's what actually holds the p/s pump to the engine. You need to loosen the bolt so the pump will move/swing to remove the belt.:naughty: Did you loosen the "pivot" bolt ?? It's what actually holds the p/s pump to the engine. You need to loosen the bolt...

The coolant flows thru the core continuously, except when the inside temp setting is placed at 65*. I would prefer to keep the coolant flowing out that back port, just for the extra protection, so I would run a by-pass hose. Also, my research on 7m BHG's showed that the MAIN place the...

Get a vacuum source from any hose and hook it to the heater water control valve. Check to see if the valve is opening and closing by putting on and taking off the vacuum hose. (you DON'T need the check valve at all, ever) If the water valve seems to be working, leave the vacuum line on and...