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I gotta look for the metal ring in my diff then cause I couldn't see it at all... There's also this metal springy loop that goes around the rubber seal that can be easily taken off. I saw that pop off while i was prying off the old seal. Well tonight I guess i will try to insert the seal, but I...

Not sure about "tapping". I have this thing in my hand now and this metal ring insert in the rubber is like ROCK hard. It seems like I have to tap it into with brute force... Shit, if they improved it, I wonder if they made it now such that you would have to insert the seal from the inside...

Thanks man, I thought it was the right part... its just that it doesn't seem physically possible to put the seal in.

Okay I finally got the Side Gear Shaft out and yanked out the old seal. I compared my old and new seal and they looked somewhat similar except the new toyota one has some hard metal ring around it while the other one didn't. I wonder if it corroded away or something (but then again how would it...

Well incase anyone looks this up later via search this is what I did: IJ suggested this to me and it worked. I used a bar (my jack lift lever) as a lever. I wedged it in between the Side Gear Shaft and the Differential housing and used a hammer and ponded the shit out of the lever until the...

No matter how hard I hit that dremel or wire brush to it with my drill there will always be rust on it... I'm just curious as to how long that paint is going to stick onto my pitted areas that i've wire brushed off...

I have some 3 year old calipers with some Heavy rust on them... I took a wire brush and got it to bare metal, BUT it was pitted. Not sure why the calipers corroded so fast. If I scrape off the rust with the wire wheel and leave it somewhat pitted, will the rust resurface through the Brake...

Double sided tape/epoxy is more than enough unless your scared that someone is going to steal it...

You gotta remove the snap ring before I get that Side Gear Shaft off? Are you sure? I believe the snap ring is there to hold the dust cover in place, which is behind the Side Gear Shaft. The snap ring is not visible, at least I don't think so...

I agree, the dealer is the way to go with those type of seals. I too wonder if my New CHEAPO seals (Some brand starting with a "V") are no good. What's a good way to check the valve stem seals? I know it would smoke on startup, but are there any defenite ways of checking it?

So I'm changing the side differential oil seals. I'm doing the one on the exhaust side now. How in the world do you remove the Side Gear Shaft on the differential? The whole axle itself is removed from it and all I need to do is "pop" it off. I've used a pry bar with a hammer tapping on it and...

You say there was a small gap between the surface of the block and timing cover. WELL there's your problem!!! If i'm not mistakened, you ARE suppose to machine the block with the lower timing belt cover!!! This will allow the cylinder head to sit on the block even and straight without the lower...

That gasket doesn't look blown at all... All the rings are still in tact.. The gasket material breaking up isn't really a clear indication that that was the real cause. You should have checked other places for leaks before removing the head. Did you pressure test the coolant before...

I've removed my turbo 2 times since my BHG repair... I think I got the method down pat. With my snake like china-man arms I can get to that oil line going to block off with no probs (better than trying to take it off the turbo first). Probably 20 mins or so for me to do it.. You shouldn't...

BOSCH 110 all the way for under 12psi. Its cheap and reliable and won't make you run rich.

I agree... stick to the regular stuff... synthetic is too thin for the old motor...

1st off, are you pulling any codes on the transmission? I don't know the procedure, but search it or look in the TSRM. Usually the O/D light staying on is an indication that error codes for the transmission are available for viewing.

I'm not sure what your power goals are and your budget, but if you don't want to spend much cash I would just go buy a used JDM 7M-GTE and slap on a stock HG with the arps. You mentioned that you have a new head, I would slap that on top of the JDM engine. A whole JDM motor sells in Toronto...

I have a JDM throttle body on hand that's just sitting around. BUT i am an automatic... Is there something additional i have to do to make this work??? I heard the auto has some cable coming from it to sense the throttle position or something? Thanks.

I would just bust out the angle grinder, BUT i rather take it off much more cleanly if possible.. I have a picture of it and it seems like its just bolted on... I guess i will have to see when the time comes to change me rotors...