As noted, there is no shim kit for the head. The machine shop will need to re-use the shims you have, or order the ones that are the right size when it's all done.
As I've said in your PM, I'd reccomend replacing your stock valve springs with CompCams ones. They are a great deal. New springs for about 70.00 and they have pressures that are not so high as to cause problems, and will allow for slightly higher engine speed. (Not that many have a stand alone needed to run the 7M faster than stock anyway, and it's not needed.)
Again, mild clean up of the intake, and exhaust, and smoothing of all sharp edges or casting flash pays off.
Check out IJ's photos of the cut head to see how much room you have to port. There is not much in places, and you would be sad to grind through into a coolant passage.
Larger valves are not needed unless you are going to do some serious port work.
Make sure the machine shop decks the head with the front cover on as noted.
Make sure they shoot for the "tight" end of the clearance specs for the bearings.
New oil pump, make sure you get a 7MGTE one, and then make sure it's clean inside by pulling the cover. You can check the clearance, and have it closed up if you want. Shim the pump bypass by 10mm. (A single 10mm nut works perfect for this.. just pull the bypass, and put the nut between the spring and the piston/plunger, or on the other end of the spring at the bypass retainer. The hole in the nut allows any bypassed oil out,)
Use a quality sealer instead of cut paper gaskets where possible. (This will allow for no leaks, especially the "cork" gasket for the oil pan.. Just throw that away, and use something like "The right stuff" sealant.)
New oil squirters is a good idea, but my old ones are fine, I just sonic cleaned them. I'm sure the oil pressure lost to them is made up with my other oil system mods.
Shim the stock oil cooler bypass if you use it still. I'd reccomend going to a remote oil filter, and cooler with a thermostat, and get rid of the stock filter adapter and cooler outlet completely. (You can use the stock oil cooler as a PS cooler, and just plug the return in the oil pan.)
Anyway, good luck.
I personally would not use one at all, even for disassembly, but thats just me.
