New 7M Build....

[IBoughtASupra]

Pictures....

Engine Going In Soon....:biglaugh:

Then Comes Installing The Wiring Harness, Lexus AFM And Tanabe Exhaust And Getting It Dynoed....:evil2:

More Work To Come Until Friday. I Have Late Class Tomorrow And A Paper To Get Done....:nono:

Comments...

 

[queenskid926]

engine looks good, makes me wanna go and pull my engine apart just to paint it lol

 

[IBoughtASupra]

The Red Is Acutally Darker But The Lighting And My IPhone Camera Makes It Look Lighter Than It Actually Is....:nono:

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Hey guys, I just put in the engine in the car....more pictures soon. I am looking at the AFRP and there is a open hole here. Can someone tell me what this is for because I am lost. Is this a vaccum fitting that is missing or something else? Thanks....

It Is The Little Hole Above The Blue Bolt...

 

[enjoi.this]

Then Comes Installing The Wiring Harness, Lexus AFM And Tanabe Exhaust And Getting It Dynoed....

Make sure you properly break in your motor before you hammer it on the dyno. Lookin good so far

 

[berniek]

I had found severe cam bearing wear in two engines, and more in heads I had gotten. It occurs because the cams are fed oil from a small passage in the head into the first journals of each one. Each journal is cross drilled. So by the time oil gets to the last journals (particularly on the exhaust side, hottest), not much oil flows. I had written a procedure for refinishing the bearing caps by hand shimming down the adjacent caps to push in journal for the cap being refinished into the head saddle. I then took material off the cap and checked clearance with plastigage. The last exhaust will open up to .006" in 100K+ miles, even with synthetic oil. Pretty large clearance for a 1-1/4" journal. The startup knock drove me nuts, since I knew it was coming from the top end.

Luckily for us, the valve springs push the cams in to the caps which are easy to refinish, even with a flat file if nothing else is available. It is perfectly legitimate from a standpoint of hydrodynamic oil wedge formation that the parting line dimension of the bearing be greater than the vertical dimension. One only need look at parting lines of installed main or rod bearings to see this. Do NOT waste money on line boring the cam bearings. It will set the timing off slightly and is unnecessary since the head side of the bearing does not wear at all, just the caps.

I had written up the procedure about 2 years ago for the Supras group. Contact me if you want more info. Hope this helps.

BernieK

I am going to put in a new set of main and rod bearings. Crank was redone and it is perfectly clean and smooth. New seals and gaskets.

Ok, is there any kit to redo my head. Replace springs, valves and shims? Ofcourse, Porting and Polishing the head is a must.

I ordered a harness from 92Teal so that is coming soon. Just need some advice on this because I was told the head has a "ticking noise" and it cannot be the bottom end because it is all flawless. It even had a new oil pump!

Thanks, Andy.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Berniek, I had the cams polished and the whole head rebuilt. Everything in there is new with a three angle valve job.

What I Really Need Help On Is The Fuel Pressure Regulator. What Is The Hole For In The Picture I Posted Above? If You Know Anyone Who Can Help Me With This, Point Them In The Direction.

I Plan On Breaking In The Engine Like I Am A Senior Citizen, Trust Me. I Don't Care To Feel The Boost On The First Start Up And Then I Will Have To Pull My Engine Because I Spun A Bearing Or Something.

I Plan On Letting My Engine Sit Running For At Least Three Hours To Let all The Silicone Dry Well Before Any Driving Is Done. Also, While Waiting, I Am Going To Monitor All The Gauges And Look For Leaks That Might Occur. I Already Spotted One....The Front Of The Oil Pan....I Just Filled The Engine With Oil And It Is Leaking From There Without Even Starting It Up. I Should Have Put Some More Silicone. I Knew I Put It Too Thin:nono:. So Now I Am At School, On A Break, But My Friend Is Dropping The Front Frame And ReSealing The Oil Pan.

Man, Restoring Is Tough. The End Reward Should Be Good Though.....

 

[IBoughtASupra]

No one has any clue on what the AFRP hole is for or what is missing?

 

[NTRA08]

No one has any clue on what the AFRP hole is for or what is missing?

Thats a vaccum. Put a nipple on it and run a vac line to it.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

What nipple would work there? Can I just buy anyone that is the correct size thread and it will work? If not, where would I get one? Would AutoZone have it? Thanks, Andy.

 

[Bigzavs]

What nipple would work there? Can I just buy anyone that is the correct size thread and it will work? If not, where would I get one? Would AutoZone have it? Thanks, Andy.

youll need a 1/8 npt thread nipple, any vaccuum side that you want size wise

 

[NTRA08]

i always had a problem finding nipples that size at parts stores

 

[z9surfer]

Looking good man

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I am now off from school....well Thursday is a final for me.

I am going to pick up some AN fittings tomorrow for the injector rail.

Now, Engine Managment. WTF!? I want to use the Greddy E-Manage but it seems as if all the extra functions have not been utilized, so it is as if we are paying for nothing.

I know pictures are over due but you will get a lot of them Monday night, promise.

That anyoing "J Tube," how do I bypass it?

SAFC is looking good but the Greddy E-Manage just looks so much better. Any suggestions. Hopefully I can get the car started and running before the end of next weekend, the 23rd and then to the paint shop.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

UPDATE

Horrible DriftMotion DownPipe From Their Turbo Kit That I Had To Get Modified To Fit. Arron Said That He Can't Help That Because It Is A "Budget Kit." WTF!?:3d_frown:

Some Piping Shots

 

[berniek]

The EGR SOV in my '91 had been inoperative for years and it did not affect operation. No codes were set, ever. The stock engine ran fine. When I installed my built-up JDM I used the same SOV. The only way I knew it was that NOx readings were high.

BernieK

Youre missing the EGR cooler, and unless you have a JDM ECU you need it and the rest of the EGR system. Even if it didnt need to be decked its still not a bad idea to have it resurfaced, that way youll have a better mating surface for the HG to go on. HKS MHG are real picky when it comes to sealing.

Goto Greddys website they have the manuals on all their electronics

 

[LilMissMkIII]

Just read the thread... Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :boobies:

 

[enjoi.this]

Is that IC piping a diy kit or did you buy it like that? It looks pretty clean I must say, although you dont see that L shape in the piping before the throttle body's to often.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I Bought The Kit As A Univeral Kit. The Kit Was From DriftMotion And I Had The Pieces Welded In A Lot Of Places. I Am Using Two Couplers On The Intercooler, Two On The Piping Itself, One For The Turbo Pipe And One For The Throttle Body. Less Boost Leaks.

No EGR Makes The Car Idle Lean? What Is The Bad Part About Running With EGR, Plain And Simple.

Thanks.

 

[queenskid926]

I Bought The Kit As A Univeral Kit. The Kit Was From DriftMotion And I Had The Pieces Welded In A Lot Of Places. I Am Using Two Couplers On The Intercooler, Two On The Piping Itself, One For The Turbo Pipe And One For The Throttle Body. Less Boost Leaks.

No EGR Makes The Car Idle Lean? What Is The Bad Part About Running With EGR, Plain And Simple.

Thanks.

if you dont have a jdm ecu u will blow a headgasket, point and simple.

Think of it as this, the egr does what? puts unburnt exhaust gases back into the intake. The us ecu controls the egr, so the timing and fuel maps are tuned, takes out a lil less fuel thinking that its going to be getting that extra unburnt gas. When you dont have the egr, u dont have the extra unburn gases but the ecu still thinks that its gonna get it, hence how you run lean.