1UZ Supra swap

[milisakeracing]

While I have added further updates on my own site at http://1uzsupra.com, I have been slacking adding updates here. However, another milestone in my project has been reached which are the motor mounts. Yes, the motor mounts have finally been fabricated and are a couple of coats of paint away from being installed.

The mounts are made from 3/8" cold rolled steel with a 1/4" thick plate on the frame side. The shims are each 1/16" thick to help center/level the engine. All plates were stick welded for penetration. Since they are solid mounts, they will be pulled during the winter and inspected for defects and repaired if any are found.

Pictures of the mounts may be found at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/1uzsupra/1UZSupraMounts

 

[tlo86]

If you think they are clueless, what are the masses here? Short bus riders?

at least the majority of the people here know how to replace their head unit you see some interesting posts but not at the volume or severity you see on their site.

the mounts look good! what did other people go with on their cars this was always a fuzzy feature to me.

the engine looks good in the bay ~ think there will be any room for turbos? iirc the jgtc mrs uses a twin turbo uz heh (or another v8 platform)

 

[milisakeracing]

Engine is finally mounted to the frame. The rest of the drive train has also been re-attached including the drive shaft and the couple of reinforcement bars (one on sub-frame and other on drive shaft tunnel) plus the shifter was put back in so I could put it in gear if needed.

I was also able to break the main pulley bolt loose and remove the pulley in preparation for changing the timing belt. Depending on my schedule, the timing belt and water pump should be completely replaced by next weekend and then I can start putting the engine together and wrap up the wiring and plumbing.

 

[milisakeracing]

the mounts look good! what did other people go with on their cars this was always a fuzzy feature to me.

the engine looks good in the bay ~ think there will be any room for turbos? iirc the jgtc mrs uses a twin turbo uz heh (or another v8 platform)

Thanks for the compliment. Most of the others have been sticking with using the square or round Supra rubber isolators between the mount and frame. I decided to go solid for two reasons, a) did not have to mess with dimensions and getting the isolator to line up correctly, b) I have no isolators that will tear/go bad. However this mount could probably easily be modified now that I have one built and the drawings created in order to include a rubber isolator for those that want reduced vibration at idle.

There is plenty of room for 1-2 turbo(s). I have tossed the A/C which frees up the area on the driver side for plumbing and I will be moving/reversing the alternator to top and center location which will free up the passenger side for plumbing. Since I'll be starting out with ~6psi once I get around to putting the system together, I'll probably just plumb the two manifolds together and place one turbo over beside where the battery currently sits. However, that is next year's project. This year is just get the engine in, running, and sorted.

 

[tlo86]

Thanks for the compliment. Most of the others have been sticking with using the square or round Supra rubber isolators between the mount and frame. I decided to go solid for two reasons, a) did not have to mess with dimensions and getting the isolator to line up correctly, b) I have no isolators that will tear/go bad. However this mount could probably easily be modified now that I have one built and the drawings created in order to include a rubber isolator for those that want reduced vibration at idle.

There is plenty of room for 1-2 turbo(s). I have tossed the A/C which frees up the area on the driver side for plumbing and I will be moving/reversing the alternator to top and center location which will free up the passenger side for plumbing. Since I'll be starting out with ~6psi once I get around to putting the system together, I'll probably just plumb the two manifolds together and place one turbo over beside where the battery currently sits. However, that is next year's project. This year is just get the engine in, running, and sorted.

cant wait twin turbo 1uz is a dream for me hehe

 

[milisakeracing]

Just a quick project update. The engine is now mostly buttoned up. I'm still hunting for a lower radiator hose and cooling fan. The A/C system was removed and the heater core lines were bridged since the car isn't run during the salt, err....winter season here in Michigan. Working on wiring still as one can plainly see in the new pictures as well as positioning the power steering reservoir which is now finished but I have yet to get a picture of the frame work I put together for it.

http://picasaweb.google.com/1uzsupra/ProjectUpdate06302008

 

[milisakeracing]

Another update, this time regarding wiring. The information I have been able to find thus far has always pertained to the post-'89 Supras so some of my wiring does not quite match the information I have and I am looking for further information, especially if anyone has an '87 Toyota Supra TEWD available as well as the wiring diagrams for the '93 SC400 with wire colors as well (not just the ECU pinouts). Here are pictures of my current wiring mess with temporary crimped connections used to make sure I am making the correct connection before going back to solder and apply a shrink tube. Captions with the photos describe what is being shown. Any insight is much appreciated. Right now I have the car lights and dash working again, but the fuel pump and starter are not activating (clutch pedal switch is jumpered at the moment). Any help at this point would be immensely appreciated.

http://picasaweb.google.com/1uzsupra/Supra_Wiring

 

[Quin]

I think I read that the starter was a common problem when using a manual trans on a stock ECU, but that could have been for the VK45DE.

 

[milisakeracing]

I think I read that the starter was a common problem when using a manual trans on a stock ECU, but that could have been for the VK45DE.

Thanks Quin. A couple of guys have done it now using the stock ECU and either the R154 or the W58 as their transmissions of choice. I just need to get them to reveal their secrets

 

[milisakeracing]

Just a quick update to thank Anodyne, CJSupra90, and Jake (all over on Lextreme at http://lextreme.com (CJSupra90 is here on Supramania as well)) for their help so far with the wiring. Although I am still waiting for some further advice from Jake from another question I sent over today, I managed to get the starter subsystem to work today and roll the engine over a few times.

Next up will be the fuel subsystem later today and if it is working before the end of the day, I'll start tackling the ECU and getting the correct voltages/signals to it. Maybe if I am lucky, and with the excellent help and advice from those above, I'll have the car running by this weekend before I leave to fly to NJ for a week on Monday morning.

 

[Quin]

This car better be at the Chi2k8 meet! Dibs on first ride! :biglaugh:

 

[milisakeracing]

This car better be at the Chi2k8 meet! Dibs on first ride! :biglaugh:

Trust me, I am trying to get it wrapped up so I can drive it over! Come over and help me wrap it up :icon_razz Oh and wife already beat you on the dibs, lol. She has even crawled under the car a couple of times now to help out. It doesn't help that work has me leaving for a week to be in NJ next week and then again around August 14 for a week up in South Beloit (sp?) there on the IL/WI border.

 

[milisakeracing]

Getting a bit further now. Fuel pump is up and running with the ignition key in the ON position. Starter is still working I even got the check engine light working and had it output the codes today. Good news is I have not found any gas leaks in any of the new connections yet on the new fuel lines. Bad news is two of the power steering fittings I had put on are leaking (may not have tightened enough, they are NPT type JIC fittings) and the car still does not start. I believe the codes currently being output by the ECU may contain the problem:

OBD1 codes:

14
Ignition Signal

15
Ignition Signal

22
ECT Sensor Signal

24
IAT Sensor Signal

41
TP Sensor Signal

47
Sub TP Sensor

Having used the drawing (version 2) from the thread http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4435&highlight=4+pin+ecu that Anodyne pointed me to, I made sure EO1, EO2, E1, and E2 are all grounded. IGN+, NSW, +B, and +B1 are all on switched 12V, the W (Check engine light) is connected through the dash, back to the fuse and switched on with switched power (I think this is obvious since I got the above codes from it, lol), and +BATT is permanently supplied with 12V.

I am going to check the TP sensors tomorrow, it may be possible I mixed the two up when I was reconnecting the harness. Can the two ignitors be swapped around without affecting the system? It may be possible I have their connectors connected in the wrong order as well. The ECT....if this is the automatic transmission, of course it isn't connected. Not sure what is up with the IAT, going to go look this up to see how to diagnose it (part of the MAF?)

Any input would greatly be appreciated.

 

[milisakeracing]

So yeah it ends up I was not getting spark for some reason and since there was no ignition signal, the ECU would not fire the injectors (no injector 'noise' could be heard).

Good news! Today I started pulling off the covers so I could get at the coil plugs to see if they were sparking and it lit off (guess there was some fuel in the cylinders after all) with a small backfire. Seems that while I was messing around in the wiring I may have somehow put the ECU into 'limp' mode or even overloaded it so it went into protection mode (if such a thing exists).

So I put the coil wire back on the dizzy and was able to get it to kind of start just from the residual fuel in the rails from when I had the pump pressurize the system. I reactivated the fuel pump and she fired right up!! What a wonderful sound. I only ran the engine for ~1 minute since there is no coolant in the system yet, a couple of the PS connectors are leaking (one really losing fluid, nice puddle under it when I turned it off), and the fuel supply line is leaking after all right where I suspected it might so I need to get a different AN adapter for it because the current adapter is a flush adapter and the fuel line on the Supra is flared which means it just isn't sealing against anything. Oil pressure looked real good at close to 90psi on the dash gauge (what a change from the 7M!).

New codes taken today:

22
ECT Sensor Signal - Going to check resistance tomorrow. Wondering if it may not be getting a reading since there is no fluid even in the system yet?

24
IAT Sensor Signal - Checked the MAF connection and it is good, next I'll need to check the resistance here and find out if I am within tolerances or wiring is incorrect.

27
Sub O2S Signal - none installed, only main is installed

29
Sub O2S - none installed, only main is installed

41
TP Sensor Signal - checked connections, reseated, correct connector on correct TP, need to check for voltage/signal and resistance

47
Sub TP Sensor - TRAC is not installed

78
Fuel Pump Control - FPC is not installed

So I need to start working towards eliminating these codes as well as the leaks Plus the rest of the list which consists of wrapping up the cooling system, replacing the master/slave clutch cylinders, getting the exhaust welded up, re-looming some of the wires and getting the ECU bolted into place as a minimum and then working beautification/simplification as time allows Thanks again for the great advice everyone. I am sure I will still have questions moving forward as I get everything put back together and sorting the car out on some trips. As I get things sorted out I will add to the wiring knowledge base for those working on pre-89 chassis swaps.

 

[milisakeracing]

Good news is all diagnostic codes except for the sub-O2 sensors have now been solved. Bad news is the PS pump is leaking, the fuel gauge is not reading (although there may not be enough gas in the tank, we’ll have to wait and see when I finally make it to a gas station) and the coolant sensor for the dash gauge is not reading correctly. For now, enjoy this short video of the Supra happily burbling at idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uonu_BmB4oI

 

[Quin]

Yay!

 

[Zumtizzle]

Hot fuckin damn!

 

[milisakeracing]

I am hopeful the PS leak is just an o-ring at the top where the fill snout exits the pump. The engine sat for a couple of years in someone else's garage before I acquired it and it wouldn't surprise me if there is a dry rotted o-ring in there, although these pumps are known to leak (and take out the alternator with them).

I should at least have the temp. gauge working tomorrow. The current sender is the original one in the 1UZ which was for a dash lamp, not a gauge. Going to grab the sensor from the 7M which should fix the issue. Hoping to get the exhaust done by mid-August so I can get it out of the garage and on the road finally (which unfortunately means I will miss Chi2k8 this year :cry: ).

Watch for parts lists and wiring details for the pre-89 chassis to start showing up soon!

 

[Quin]

Wait, Chi2k8 is in late August, you've got time! Drive it out there with no exhaust lol

On a more serious note, stock headers into an x-pipe with bullet resonators and straight pipes out the tail would probably look great and sound bad ass too.

 

[milisakeracing]

Wait, Chi2k8 is in late August, you've got time! Drive it out there with no exhaust lol

On a more serious note, stock headers into an x-pipe with bullet resonators and straight pipes out the tail would probably look great and sound bad ass too.

Problem is I could have it running on the street by then, but there is still a risk of it developing problems on the way there, during, and on the way back since it won't have had any 'road time' yet to sort any issues out that crop up. Would be hell if it developed any issues on those damn toll roads there.

As for exhaust, I'm going with 2.5" from the manifolds to a magnaflow 3" y-pipe and 3" pipe back to a 3" single in/dual 3" out magnaflow muffler. I can look through both the y-pipe and muffler, there is very little restriction at all. Right now with the manifolds open I can feel the ground shake with I blip the throttle, lol.

Just wrap around the Lake when you get done at Chi2k8 and stop by my place to check it out