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Wanted to give a quick update in case anyone finds this during a search. Ran codes and found code 21 and code 22, bad O2 sensor and bad coolant temp sensor. Replaced the coolant temp sensor, and at the same time found that I had a really shitty connection on the power wire to my AFC. Rewired...

by keeping the upper RPM points on the AFC at a negative value

Thank you for all the help and suggestions! I am going to redo my PCV system. Will probably have to bring my intake pipe into a shop to have a vacuum nipple welded on. I have improved on the setup a lot. My idle still seems to be a bit lean (pulling 25% fuel, but idling at like 16:1)...

really dude? I have a set of aftermarket twins on top of a heavily modified engine...and you want me to route the PCV system like OEM? Not to mention that's for a 7M, so that does me literally, zero good. Anyone, have any real help?

Yea, I know that is a bit rich down low, but I'm hesitant to pull much more fuel due to the timing increase. Maybe I will try and play around with my midrange "tune" a bit more. Not sure on the sizing tbh. There is very limited information on these turbos. All I know is they are K26, with...

I soaked the things in carb cleaner and idle didn't change one bit. So I've ruled that out. I am thinking of buying one of those cheap fog machines and hooking that up to my intake tract to try and spot any leaks. Knowing everything that I've looked at, I'm thinking it may be a leak between...

So I cleaned out my IC with gasoline (was dirty as shit) and removed my EBC (AVCR). boost comes on much quicker now, making 10 psi by 4k rpm and hitting 16 psi around 5k. Power also feels much stronger. My vaccum is still low at about -13 though, so I need to figure that out. I've checked...

Also, I took my IC off and it was full of crap. Cleaned it out and spool was unchanged, but power up top feels much better. Going to replace the FPR and see how that effects my AFRs, as well as redo some of my vacuum hoses. I'm only pulling about 13 inhg at idle, so I'm thinking I have...

Nope, still have it. Just underwent a makeover and unveiled my new team but anyways, yes I am very aware how the AFC effects timing. However, pulling fuel increases timing, which should help with spool. Plus, as discussed, I'm not pulling much fuel. 15%ish at idle, like 10% midrange, and...

Thanks for the advice. Am I correct in assuming that I should be pulling 30% fuel at idle? I know the factory ECU will automatically correct if you are +- a certain percentage, but -30% at the AFC should result in a 14.7 idle, correct?

So a couple years ago I installed the blitz K26 Twin turbo kit. When I purchased this kit, the information out there was scarce, but everything I found said the kit should be good for upwards of 600 hp, with lag only slightly more then the stock twins. I'm only really shooting for about 450...

The megan coilovers come with separate ride height adjustment...there is absolutely no way you are near the end of it's travel. That is the shitty damping of megan coilovers that you are feeling. You are "getting used to" shit suspension that can not control the wheel movement properly.

Where in this discussion are we talking of high HP cars? Sounds like this dude has a mostly stock engine if he's putting a CAI on it. I don't think anyone is debating that a CAI could help lower overall intake temps. But the extra piping and bends robs more HP then the few degrees warmer air...

Love the color. I usually don't like MKIV wheels, But it looks way better in the before shot. Why did the rear raise? That looks dumb

O RLY Can you please show me any high horsepower turbo setups with a cold air intake? Turbo's do not want to have to work to pull in air. The more tubing and bends in the intake piping pre-turbo the more restriction there is on the turbo. This robs HP more then warmer air, which gets heated...

But if you can tune the ignition table then it really doesn't really matter if you use any scaling, right? Maybe just an option to disable fuel cut on the initial release and then work for an update with your scaling approach?

Why are you running a CAI? Those are pointless and can actually cause a drop in HP on turbo motors. Just get a short ram

This is almost for sure a problem with the connection to the starter solenoid. There is a blue wire going from the ignition switch directly to the little tab on the starter solenoid (comes through the firewall by the main engine harness). Over the years this wire gets corroded and the...

As the wheel travels up it also cambers in giving more clearance. Thats why a lot of "hella flush" cars don't have rubbing issues.

you are incorrect sir...grossly incorrect There is a guy in San Fran (Chevy37) that drifts an NA 7M fairly well. You don't need much power to drift at all, and the added weight really only effects weight transfer, not how much power you need to drift. I have been drifting on a stock 1J for...