Water proofing a Cold Air Intake

te72

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airhead04;1839331 said:
Which means bent pipe to underneath the head light
Which is why you bring the air TO your intake box, leaving the filter in a box shielded from engine bay heat, with ducting to said box from outside... Makes perfect sense to me.

Turbo Habanero;1839343 said:
I would think CAI are pointless in areas like mine.

Where the street temps can get extreme.
Even road temps in Phoenix are still lower than what's under the hood. ;)
 

Canuckrz

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tErbo b00st;1839286 said:
O RLY

Can you please show me any high horsepower turbo setups with a cold air intake? Turbo's do not want to have to work to pull in air. The more tubing and bends in the intake piping pre-turbo the more restriction there is on the turbo. This robs HP more then warmer air, which gets heated up more anyways and then pushed through the IC.

Or I guess we could also point out that intakes only give around 3-10 hp anyways, we'll be generous and say a CAI will account for 5 HP of that (which it doesn't, but if your under the assumption CAI helps on turbo's, then we'll run with it)...so why risk water getting into the intake for 5 hp?
5hp on a stock application. Power adders don't work off strait number figures they do it by a %.

Also most of these rediculously high horsepower vehicles arent daily driven so heatsoak is less of a concern. Also please note that the stock intake is technically a cold air intake. I do agree that the bendy long pipe with a turbo isnt so great, and a filter in the same location as stock combined with a custom air box would be a better choise as others have mentioned previously.

PS: YA RLY
 

airhead04

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radiod;1839353 said:
I'm not saying you need to move the filter anywhere. Keep it where it is, throw up some heat shields around it so you're not getting the hot engine bay air. Like so:

0403tur_03z+1998_Toyota_Supra+Intake_System.jpg

That isnt a cold air intake. It may be sold as one, but your still sucking in HOT engine bay air. NOW, it it would have had say some rubber along the top of the metal shields so it could seal against the engine, I would have been fine with it. But that is just an intake. Its still going to be sucking hot air in, because it has that gap there where it isnt completely sealed off from engine bay temps
 

Poodles

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The turbo isn't going to care about the bends. The main reason you don't see it on high HP cars is becaus they'd have to route a 4" or larger pipe...
 

te72

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airhead04;1839359 said:
That isnt a cold air intake. It may be sold as one, but your still sucking in HOT engine bay air. NOW, it it would have had say some rubber along the top of the metal shields so it could seal against the engine, I would have been fine with it. But that is just an intake. Its still going to be sucking hot air in, because it has that gap there where it isnt completely sealed off from engine bay temps
Could also have the gasket on the hood itself...
 

OneJArpus

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Cold air intake? Spend the extra thought on a way to cool the air AFTER it goes through the intercooler. No matter how cold it is before it gets to the turbo its going to heat up and FAST.... finding a good way to lower the temps after is more important. Good intercooler with a good core / water/meth injection.
 

te72

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Good point man, water injection will cool intake temperatures way more than anything pre-turbo could ever hope to achieve. :)
 

Another MkIII

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te72;1839997 said:
Good point man, water injection will cool intake temperatures way more than anything pre-turbo could ever hope to achieve. :)
Oh the irony. Thread starts by talking about ways to keep water out of intake. Thread progresses to injecting water into the intake. :p
-AM3
 

Poodles

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OneJArpus;1839841 said:
Cold air intake? Spend the extra thought on a way to cool the air AFTER it goes through the intercooler. No matter how cold it is before it gets to the turbo its going to heat up and FAST.... finding a good way to lower the temps after is more important. Good intercooler with a good core / water/meth injection.

Ok guys, let me explain it this way.

Ambient air + heating from compression - cooling from intercooler = final intake charge

No intercooler is going to cool all the way back down to ambient. Period. It only has the ability to drop a certain amount, so if you're sucking crazy hot air from the engine bay, it's going to be far hotter coming out of the IC than if it was cold ambient air. Not to mention heat soak or anything like that.

Also, a colder intake charge is more dense getting more into the turbo.

Seeing as how some of us *cough*IJ*cough* have actually datalogged before and after the IC with and without a CAI, this isn't up for debate.

Cooling the intake charge with water or meth isn't really going to matter if the charge is hot and less dense. Remember, air + fuel + spark = power...
 

te72

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Poodles;1840037 said:
Cooling the intake charge with water or meth isn't really going to matter if the charge is hot and less dense. Remember, air + fuel + spark = power...
Soooo... what you're saying is to run a cold air intake AND water/methanol injection. Makes sense to me. :)
 

tErbo b00st

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Poodles;1839370 said:
The turbo isn't going to care about the bends. The main reason you don't see it on high HP cars is becaus they'd have to route a 4" or larger pipe...

Where in this discussion are we talking of high HP cars? Sounds like this dude has a mostly stock engine if he's putting a CAI on it.

Poodles;1840037 said:
Ok guys, let me explain it this way.

Ambient air + heating from compression - cooling from intercooler = final intake charge

No intercooler is going to cool all the way back down to ambient. Period. It only has the ability to drop a certain amount, so if you're sucking crazy hot air from the engine bay, it's going to be far hotter coming out of the IC than if it was cold ambient air. Not to mention heat soak or anything like that.

Also, a colder intake charge is more dense getting more into the turbo.

Seeing as how some of us *cough*IJ*cough* have actually datalogged before and after the IC with and without a CAI, this isn't up for debate.

Cooling the intake charge with water or meth isn't really going to matter if the charge is hot and less dense. Remember, air + fuel + spark = power...

I don't think anyone is debating that a CAI could help lower overall intake temps. But the extra piping and bends robs more HP then the few degrees warmer air you get. It can also increase turbo lag as the turbo has to try even harder to suck in air.

You do realize that cooling the intake charge with water or meth is in an attempt to get the air cooler and more dense. Thats the whole point lulz
 

Canuckrz

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The person who mentioned high HP cars WAS him.

tErbo b00st;1839286 said:
O RLY

Can you please show me any high horsepower turbo setups with a cold air intake? Turbo's do not want to have to work to pull in air. The more tubing and bends in the intake piping pre-turbo the more restriction there is on the turbo. This robs HP more then warmer air, which gets heated up more anyways and then pushed through the IC.

Or I guess we could also point out that intakes only give around 3-10 hp anyways, we'll be generous and say a CAI will account for 5 HP of that (which it doesn't, but if your under the assumption CAI helps on turbo's, then we'll run with it)...so why risk water getting into the intake for 5 hp?
 

Poodles

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tErbo b00st;1840302 said:
Where in this discussion are we talking of high HP cars? Sounds like this dude has a mostly stock engine if he's putting a CAI on it.



I don't think anyone is debating that a CAI could help lower overall intake temps. But the extra piping and bends robs more HP then the few degrees warmer air you get. It can also increase turbo lag as the turbo has to try even harder to suck in air.

You do realize that cooling the intake charge with water or meth is in an attempt to get the air cooler and more dense. Thats the whole point lulz

The extra piping is doing nothing and the turbo isn't working harder. Have you not noticed the intake to the turbo is the smallest part? Or maybe the AFM on most cars. Bet you're one of those people that thinks there's actual suction behind the air filter...

Also, no, meth injection is added fuel and octane...
 

Satan

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radiod;1839353 said:

Hadn't gotten to this project yet, but would like to make a similar box which seals w/the hood and have some air routed from below. The only thing I can't seem to figure out, is what heat shielding I can add to keep the ambient heat from the metal away from the filter area. Seen 'em on other boxes, but dunno what the material's called or where to get it (looks like Dynamat).

I think this is probably the best one can expect w/an MKIII, without A LOT of extra work to get the filter lower (cavity below headlight) and overall same results.
 

te72

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Poodles;1840427 said:
Also, no, meth injection is added fuel and octane...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but does it not also cool the IAT as well? Thought that was part of the fun.

Satan;1840477 said:
Hadn't gotten to this project yet, but would like to make a similar box which seals w/the hood and have some air routed from below. The only thing I can't seem to figure out, is what heat shielding I can add to keep the ambient heat from the metal away from the filter area. Seen 'em on other boxes, but dunno what the material's called or where to get it (looks like Dynamat).
You may be talking about Stinger Roadkill. I put some extra on my turbo heat shield, thinking it might be some extra insurance. Does it work? Not really sure, when I remove the twins, I'll likely find that a bunch of it (the tar substance below the aluminum) probably melted off. Given by how much of it gets stuck to a spare tire in hot weather anyway...

In all honesty, I would prefer a coating that would REPEL heat, I think a stick on material like Stinger or Dynamat might heat soak the box. Would it be enough to offset fresh, cool air being ducted in? That would be the question on my mind. ;)
 

Van

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Jay C;1837908 said:
Hey everyone i was just wondering what if anything you have done to water proof your cold air intakes. I have the Weapon R system and the intake is basically right under the passenger headlight. I was thinking of getting the AEM air Bypass valve but it states on there website that it is NOT for use on forced induction vehicles (http://www.aemintakes.com/air_bypass_valve.htm). Would a simple filter cover work or should i not worry about it?
I've been running a CAI with the cone air filter located under the passenger head light since 2005 and to date it works flawlessly. No regrets placing it there and I live in the Greater Northwest where it rains baby! The Supra is driven daily, 365 days a year.
HTH
Van