Search results

My car sits the same as yours does in your pic. Any downsides to taking out the fender lining?

Black

They are new, I've had them on for a couple months. They are very stiff. I love the way they ride I just wish the car was a little bit higher. f00g00, where did you find your spring spacers?

I have the race series H&R springs on my car and it is slammed, especially in the front. Any bump in the road and the tires rub the top of the fender liners badly. Do they make a coil spacer that I could use or is there any other way to raise the front an inch or so without having to buy new...

Small town on the coast, Waldport

:aigo: I really think it was dropped now, on the front of the crank

You should label the coil packs 163425 so there isn't any confusion. I bet it would run a lot smoother with that bypass valve hooked back up. We aren't trying to pick your car apart, just want to see it set up properly.

I cut the back section off the turbo heatshield and it fits again. Stock intercooler hose was too hot to touch without it. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

I wonder if they dropped the crank or something while they had it apart

Plug that bypass valve back into the accordion pipe!!

*Downpipe Some info for anyone thinking about these parts. The driftmotion downpipe is perfect. Money well spent. Fitment is perfect and it tucks up under the car very well. It's heavy stainless and the finish is very nice. The opening from the turbo is very large, the wastegate flapper will...

Check for clogged cats

Everyone overlooks clogged cats. I was boosting around 2 lbs as well until I got rid of both cats. Then it jumped up to 8 lbs and felt like it gained 100hp

::bhg::

It sounds the head was warped and resurfaced, which doesn't fix the warped cam tunnels. Also, cars in the northwest are always more expensive. Around here, a decent, running stock turbo goes for 4K+, and I've seen people asking 3K for BHG cars with mods.

It's one tough sob if you put a metal headgasket in it and keep it full of oil.

Welcome

The clutch fork has to come out or they won't separate.

All 7M's I have heard make that slight clattering sound, I left my shims on the loose side of spec and I can hear them clattering away at idle. If it was rod knock, it's more of a "shut it down before it explodes" kind of noise.

I have a shaftmasters 1 piece aluminum. Perfect fit, and it's very light. I took it up to 120 with 4.30 gears, with no vibration or noise. If I was you, I'd go with the 1 piece 3.5" aluminum.