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No, everything clears when the motor is at TDC.

I would never trust that headgasket. You don't want to be doing this job again. If you are mechanically inclined, just do it yourself. I spent about 300-400 putting a toyota headgasket with arp's in my car, had the head machined, checked, and cleaned, replaced all gaskets and hoses too. The job...

Stop running it with a BHG

OEM headgasket will be fine on 10psi, that's what I ran for a while and the headgasket looked perfect when I tore the motor down. Stock injectors and AFM are fine on 10psi as well. Use studs, they are better than bolts. I've never ported or polished, I don't see why you couldn't though. Flush...

The easiest way is to pull the head, get it machined, and put in an OEM headgasket from Toyota. It will hold up fine under low boost levels. If you want to run a metal headgasket such as cometic, titan, hks, you are going to have to pull the engine and tear it down; the block and head need to be...

Think about it again. In overdrive the input shaft has to spin 0.705 times to spin the output shaft 1 time. The driveshaft spins faster than the engine in overdrive.

If it's pushing coolant the headgasket is blown. Re-torquing won't help, and definitely don't put sealer in it. Let it sit until you can fix it. Manual trans? The R154 trans is extremely durable. Pretty sure the clank into reverse is normal, my car does it.

I have a Shaftmasters aluminum too. Fit is perfect. Very light. No vibration.

I had to make the same decision. I'm building my 7m. For me, I'd rather have a fresh 7M that I personally built than a used 1JZ. I also prefer the sound and the torque of the 7M. I also hate wiring. It depends on what you want out of the car, and your skills involving mechanical work and wiring.

The GM system takes into account the number of cold starts, number of engine revolutions, etc.

That's what I'll be using.

Good. Just ordered the parts. Can't wait to build it.

Really? I've seen them holding up well for other members. I really don't want forged as the car is a daily driver.

Ready to order parts for my 7M rebuild. Mods will include 3" turbo back, large front mount, and stock CT at 10 psi. Car is a daily driver, and I'm on a budget. Part list: 7M block .020 over, decked 6M crank, polished NPR pistons Clevite bearings ARP rod bolts, rods resized ARP head studs...

Good choice on the AEM.

-vacuum hoses directly to intake manifold? -oil pressure should be higher than 20 when driving. Fix the leaks. Try bypassing the cooler. Did you replace the oil squirters when you rebuilt the engine? -Hot at the top, cold at the bottom means the radiator is cooling properly. Temp should stay...

What about new Toyota hardware? No line hone/ rod resizing?

Can I reuse them or do I have to buy ARP?

Daily drove my 87 Turbo for almost a year until I blew the motor. Mods were intake, 3" turbo back, stock ct at 10 lbs, arp headbolts. Fun and reliable, surprised many people, and knocked down 24-27 mpg. I'm rebuilding now and will be DD'ing it again when it's done.

Go to an auto parts store and ask for a 3/4" bypass cap. I'm guessing your HG is blown if you drove with that hole open.