I would get the turbo upgraded to a 57 trim when you get it rebuilt. Definitely go OEM on all gaskets and seals. I used Driftmotion's kit for the studs, worked well.
After you get the elbow and downpipe off you should have plenty of room to reach down from the back with a 14mm wrench to get the bottom two nuts off the turbo flange. I've had to pull the turbo multiple times, I've found it's easiest to leave the oil lines attached to the turbo and just unbolt...
Is the bov vented to atmosphere? That will cause it to bounce rich and then lean while shifting. Mid 13s under boost is dangerously lean. Are the injectors stock? Make sure it has the stock AFM housing and not swapped for a lexus AFM.
Sounds pretty gnarly. I would pull the cam covers off and inspect the valvetrain first. Does it still have good oil pressure? Any metal flakes in the oil? Nothing caught in the fan? Pull the clutch inspection plate and make sure the flywheel isn't falling off.
My 7M makes about 10 psi at hot idle and about 35 on the highway. This is using 5w-30 synthetic. Oil pump has been shimmed 5mm. Basically between the low pressure and all the rod knocked 7M's I see, I worry about it. Is this pressure normal?
The lower radiator hose is cooler than the top because the radiator is working properly. I would replace the thermostat, radiator cap, and all the coolant hoses. If any hose has a small leak the cooling system won't pull coolant back from the overflow and you'll end up with a heater core full of...
The ECU shuts off the injectors with the throttle closed under engine braking.
Running lean right when fuel cut happened is what worried me, now I know that's not the case.
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