Search results

Thanks, it was the tail light failure box. I used jumper wires on the plug and they are working properly now.

All the tailights work properly, but when I press the brakes the driver's side light assembly turns off completely. The passenger side and 3rd brakelight work fine. The bulbs are new. It's an 87 Supra.

There is another vacuum line that runs from the 3000 pipe down to the vacuum hardlines underneath the intake manifold.

Welcome!

All coolant hoses, valve seals, and check valve shim clearance. Make sure you use an OEM gasket for the EGR cooler plate on the back of the head.

New fuel pump might have went bad or you have a bad wiring connection. Also, check the intercooler piping, it will barely start and die if it blows a hose off. Where are you in Oregon?

Does the stock gauge change according to coolant temperature or does it sit at one "normal" point until temps get very high? I'm curious because I was driving yesterday in 85* weather climbing a mile long pass at over 100mph and my gauge never changed from 1/3 of the way up. Also stayed in the...

I had the same problem, I carefully trimmed it with a razor blade. Works fine.

Running without a thermostat WILL make it overheat. Coolant will circulate through the system too quickly for the coolant to remove heat from the engine and dissipate it from the radiator.

Thanks, I have a few hundred miles on it now and it's running great

Clean the surfaces with a razor blade and use an OEM gasket.

I didn't think about it but I did have the flywheel machined. I will adjust the pedal.

Finished my 7M, just a basic daily driver. This was my first ever engine build, went well. Here's the vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCcRo7WTN8g

The clutch fork and rod are both in the right place. So the clutch pedal now seems normal on the lower half of travel, and it will pop all the way up by itself, but the top half of travel there is nothing to the pedal. The car is drivable and the clutch works fine but the clutch engages right...

I just finished a full engine rebuild in my Supra (which runs great) but I can't drive the car because the clutch pedal is now about an inch off the floor. I bled the slave cylinder many times and no change. Any Ideas?

Having the head machined, checked, and cleaned cost me $60.

Are your exhaust manifold heat shields missing? Mine were and I kept melting hoses. Replaced them and no more problems.

Razor blades

NPR .020 pistons Titan 2.0mm MHG ARP head studs ARP rod bolts Clevite bearings Just a solid daily driver.

Not .050 over .50 millimeters over which is .020 over