Search results

As for the gas hatch, look at the shap of the tip, it should be rounded, filing off any burrs will help, but don't file off too much. Also, replacing the smapp metal spring that's attached to the gas door will usually fix the whole problem, burrs or not.

It looks like the PS vacuum nipple might be in the same spot as on the stock setup.... you should let these guys here know what make, model and year the pipe you used is for. ;)

Damn, talk about misinformation central... This crap always kills me. 1st, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A TOYOTA MASTER KEY!!! Most automotive locks use blades (flat pieces of metal of varying size with a rectangular hole in them) there is no place for stacking as there is with cylindrical...

ROFL.... I figured that was the case. No sweat.

The lamp modules alone are rather pricey... http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modules.asp

It is a custom build. IIRC, he's using Hella 90mm lamps... they also have some smaller ones available now. You might try searching "hella 90mm" for more info.

According to Dr.J, the GE ECU doesn't have HAC.... any year. Naturally, I'd like to know which is correct. As for the plugs how different are they? In the TSRM they used the same illustration for pre and post.

Well, the spring's a good place to start. Also make sure the pedal isn't getting caught on anything: carpet, floormats, wiring. Also check the steel cable for any signs of fraying, most commonly this occurs where it enters the sheath near the pedal assembly and the TB linkage. If all that...

The 89+ uses more of the pinouts than the pre89... on the pre89 there are several unused (or at least undocumented) pins. I'm not sure if there is enough difference that it would keep one from working on the other. It is a distinct possibility that they both have the same pinout and the 89+...

You're mixing up the pin positions for the AFM and ECU. The Pale Green wire for example IS pin 3 on the ECU in that pic, but pin 2 on the AFM. Your best bet is looking up the ECU's pinout and not relying entirely on the wiring diagram... unfortunately, I've found a couple instances where one...

Would you mind PMing me with more info and perhaps some more pics? I'm very interested in how the whole thing is put together.

When you say the tail lights stay on, specifically which lights? The brake lights? Check the switch the pedal arm contacts. As for brake in... just take things nice and easy for the first few hundred miles. Then change the oil filter (shouldn't need to change the oil though). Then take it...

I seriously doubt you'd see much, if any, improvement. There are a number of other things you'd have to rework, port and polish, or flat out replace with something different. These include: Port & polish "Y" pipe (or possibly replace with a larger custom Y pipe and rework the intake surge...

Yup, a switch would work... but there's still the possibility someone industrious enough or worse yet someone you know will find it. Wearing out the recepticle isn't terribly likely, but, if I did have one weaken to that point I'd just replace the specific recepticle (I'm referring to mating...

The differences on the 7M are subtler, but there is a difference... and no, timing by ear is no replacement for a timing light. Did you find how the timing belt managed to let loose of the exhaust cam that much?

You may unplug it for as long as you wish... the memory is non-volatile. Hehe, nice to see I'm not the only person who looks at the MAFT Pro as yet another layer of anti-theft protection.

Drumminforev, it's one thing for you to try and not be able to figure something out... the point is that you're willing to make an effort. As mentioned before, if you're not willing to "waste your time" then why should we? I didn't know the answer off the top of my head, I went and found it for...

Are you using a 1/2" drive or 3/8" drive? Most 3/8" drive sockets fit, IIRC. Otherwise have a machine shop grind down the wall on an an impact socket.

I can get mine dead on.... have you checked the tension on both sides of the belt? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=30

Actually, if the water's coming out of a hose you can.... but it's not fun... :evil2: Here's the link for aligning the camshafts when you remove the head: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=23 Here's a link for aligning the camshaft gears when...