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JJ's right, a momentary DPDT switch will work out the easiest. Go to www.digikey.com Search: EG2419-ND It's a 5A, mom-off-mom, DPDT, looks like the one you posted a pic of. The switch actuator is .41". Here's the datasheet. IF 5A is too low (I haven't looked into how much current...

Doesn't the MAFT Pro still need to change the signal to KS for any adjustment in AFC mode to have any effect? I'm pretty sure the MAFT Pro needs to be wired inline (ie: the KS line from the AFM needs to be cut and the MAFT Pro wired in between). The fact that you've got no readings for F-In...

Throw a couple relays in the mix.

It's possible, but you'll loose the auto up/down (unless you also install an aftermarket controller). Also you'll need to make sure you use a momentary switch... it'd such to burn out your window motor because you didn't realize you bumped the switch. The TEWD will give you everything you need.

^^^IIRC, it's back from the ignition. Take off the panels, slide underneath, and look back in a line from the ignition.

Are you certain of the settings in the "Setup Menu"? And have you wired the MAFT Pro in so that it's intercepting the AFM's signal and feeding it back out to the TCCS?

Excellent! Next time you'll get the job done in half the time. ;) So, which model Kenwood did you install? Oh, and did the 5.25" speakers fit in the rear?

If it's what I'm thinking of, they're a bolt on affair... at least I should say that all I needed to do to put a targa door on my hardtop was take off two screws and a bracket. I don't know if the original hardtop door had mounts welded in so it could accept the brackets.

I'm just not seeing it... they'd really have to be stacked on ontop of the other to compare. With retroreflective lenses the slightest change in lighting or angle makes a massive difference. The ones you used as examples look the same color to me, the top ones just look poorly lit and dirty.

Interesting.... neither of my doors does that. Nor did the one I replaced, all were pre89. Why don't mine do it?!

The 5.25 rears aren't for pre89. That much I'm positive about. EDIT: Oh, and 89+ had an optional 6 speaker system (I believe that's the one that had 5.25" in spots next to the rear seats.), the 6.5" fronts came later.

Do you have a picture? It sounds to me like you're just describing the light refraction from the retroreflector. The retroreflector in the side markers have half that faces forward the other faces rearward... Take a close look at yours and you'll see what I'm talking about.

The rears are not 4", they're 4.5". 4" speakers will fit, IIRC. Or, if you're feeling industrious, some people have managed to shoe horn in 5.25" speakers. The fronts are 4", unless you feel like making a couple mounts and dropping in 6.5"s. The front speakers are cake, I think more people...

True, a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator or even Damper can cause the engine to run rich. It's less common, although on my car that's what started the problems... A Toyota Service Department should be able to test them, I think it cost me about $30. Replacing them wasn't nearly as inexpensive, but if...

Well, like I said, if you need any help with it let me know.

Yup! Only takes a minute. Wiring it up should be real quick too.

The harness everyone's referring to is an adapter which has plugs that connect directly to the stock stereo's plugs... if the Alpine is connected with such a harness you can just reuse it, if not you're either going to be soldering/crimping the Kenwood harness to the bare wires where the stock...

Supposedly they use the pre89 cap. All I can tell you is that my cap from my '88 fit perfectly.

The Kenwood should have come with pigtails (plugs which slide into the sockets on the back). If you don't have them you'll need to order a pair. The Alpine should be mounted using the Supra's stock brackets. Yes, you'll need them to mount the Kenwood.