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I've been seriously considering getting one... especially after my bumper got a little beat up when I had to have my dad tow my car home with a tow strap during the blizzard.

Yup, Water Displacement 40th attempt. Developed by Norman Larson as a corrosion prevention. While it does have *some* lubricating properties, I wouldn't recommend it for most things... there are far better lubricants out there. WD-40 is great for coating things like your block's deck during a...

Agreed, PB blaster and an easy out are probably your best bet. Another option would be PB and then use a dremel to cut a slot into the remaining bleeder for a flat head screw driver... but the easy out will let you torque it a bit harder.

Well, first off, if you're breaking the handle from holding it up when you close it then just lock it with the key. Moly is a short for molybdenum disulfide, a very popular lubrication for moving metal parts... it's just what I had handy when I was working on my passenger door. Most other...

I just started with every bolt and nut on the interior behind the plastic panels.... Hell, half the screws for the interior plastic trim were falling out as well. That cured about 60% of the creaks and rattles my car had, new bump stops and hatch weather strip fixed another 30%. The last thing I...

As plaaya69 said, check your codes. I'd bet it's one of the following: ISC, TPS, AFM

Excellent!! That means it was (most likely) replaced according to Toyota's specs... :3d_frown:

I really think you ought to double check the rear speaker size. I haven't had mine out yet, but every set I've seen in the jy are not 5.25". According to Jeff they're 4.25" stock. Just keep it in mind that if you go with 5.25" you may need to modify or fabricate brackets.

:icon_conf LOL, lemme guess it was one of the coolant lines running to the throttle body? Here's a tip: If you remove a vacuum line and there's either coolant or oil in it odds are it's NOT a vacuum line and you shouldn't swap it out with silicone hose. The writeup I just posted a link to...

I don't quite understand what you're asking. The diagram show the vacuum lines for the 7M-GTE, although it doesn't show all of them. Here's a nice writeup for replacing the vacuum lines and a couple hoses as well: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx

You have to remove the interior trim panels first. HINT: You have to remove the trim from the trunk first.

Beats me, I may have misunderstood. Below are the comments that lead me to believe he's already scaling his fuel. He's just running off the Pro's Map using SpdDen mode? How..... odd. But, I think I get it. No FI to worry about then.

IIRC - that thread was on SF.

Doward - Since you're already using the MAFT Pro for scaling check out the aforementioned resistor. If it's still present and there's enough lead left to solder it back in, you're set. If the resistor's been pulled let me know and I'll look and see what size resistor you'll need to replace it...

MA71 is a designation for turbo models... I can't recall if they all had it though or if it was started after a certain year. EDIT: Oh, and not searching for answers here is going to get you a LOT of shit!

A pot of boiling water set in the trunk along with spaying the windows with water with a little dish soap works very well on cars that have really nasty grime built up on them. Spray the windows, set the pot of boiling water in the trunk (sitting on a hot pad or something). Close it all up and...

You could be burning oil... Where is the coolant leaking? Have you run a compression test? Is your coolant showing any signs of contamination?

Is it oily? Or perhaps oil along with the remains of your cat's guts?

Doward - As far as I can tell you've got two options. Setup timing monitoring or resolder/replace the pull up resistor (R7 I believe). I don't know if Mike removed the resistor completely or just clipped or desoldered one of the leads. Personally, when I make the move to setup timing...

Thanks Jeff!