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Another common cause is if one or more of the bulb sockets are corroded. The corrosion adds resistance and can cause a false trigger of the failure module.

Yes, Aisin parts are usually fine... hell, half the OEM parts for our car are made by Aisin.

x87SUPRA87x, thanks, I've never seen that before and I've seen a LOT of N/A's. I suspect that Y pipe is like that because it's JDM, remember, they didn't need to cast in an EGR inlet. I definitely looks cleaner. As for the writing thing, yet again something I've never heard before. Every...

ROFL, I *just* got home from putting mine together. It's a bit of a chore, but for the price I'd do it again.

The filter medium is replaceable... you can either buy a replacement filter from Toyota (no idea what it costs) or just pick up some PCV filter medium (looks like a pad of synthetic cotton) from a local parts store for a buck and cut a piece to fit. As for the plate on top of the Y pipe...

The EGR inlet into the N/A's intake manifold routes up through the Y pipe. That passage serves as an access for cleaning and was probably used in the machining of the passage (since it's rather hard to cast or mill something with multiple 90º bends in it).

Thanks for the in depth clarification JJ. I knew the basics, now I know the rest. :icon_bigg

His "Y" pipe is fine.

:naughty: Uh, yeah... sure. If it make you feel like a proper dirty old man, then YES! Oh, no, don't talk like that grandpa... no not there... :evil2:

Oh, and the rubber piece on the end is supposed to be full of filtering medium... not empty.

Air filter/buffer for the dashpot. Okay, didn't read the rest of your post. If the dashpot is gummed up and isn't letting air out it'll hold the throttle plate open (just a bit) until the diaphram retracts again. The filter is there mainly to prevent debris from entering the dashpot diaphram...

You needn't be so vulgar... simply saying something like "It's like throwing a toothpick down a hallway" is descriptive enough. Anyway, the hatch itself is 52" wide. The car is about 63" wide where it tapers inward from the wheel wells. The deck from the glass back to the edge is 9" in the...

I'm not entirely sure what it is you're asking. Are you asking for the dimensions of the hatch's deck? Are you asking for the placement of the holes used for mounting the stock spoiler?

Sounds like something's caught in the blower. Isn't the blower accessible without pulling the dash?

If you pull the timing belt I imagine an impact socket would do... probably best to pull the cam covers and just turn it for a second... but even if it flows it's still no guarantee.

Check the coolant while the motor's cool, look in the rad for any small oily bubbles floating on top... or find somewhere to get the coolant analyzed. Have you drained the oil to check for coolant? If the cam covers are leaking badly enough and the oil isn't checked very often you can...

It could be a BHG, it could be loosing oil into the plug galley from the cam covers. Start with checking the following: Coolant for contaminated with oil. Visible oil leaks. (especially check for oil coming from the timing belt cover or distributor) Oil in the spark plug galley. Oil...

Have you considered buying bulk ignition wire and terminals and making your own? You'll probably have a much easier time with it and it should be a lot cheaper. I know Taylor makes yellow wire that's available in bulk. http://www.taylorvertex.com/hp/index.cgi/Thundervolt50PreMadeCoilWires...

Thanks for the heads up. When my mufflers get here I'll check them out... I've got a small list going: there are now two lines on it.:icon_razz

Actually, on a switch setup you'll need to turn them on everytime the car stops... less passive airflow through the rad. ;) A few people have posted with the details of their wiring setup on here and SF. Try doing a search for "electric fan". Shrouds usually make a HUGE difference. 10º is...